We are in Zone 5 (Spokane, WA). House is 1930 Cape Cod style brick veneer. The basement is concrete and is in good condition (according to the home inspector 4+ years ago…). There is some efflorescence along what I assume is the frost line a foot or so above the cement floor. There are no bulk water issues that I can see. Actually, it’s been raining for 3 days straight and I haven’t had any dampness or bulk water problems. The grading on the exterior is OK, but I am going to improve the situation with some gutters in a couple places. Drainage in the yard is good and the house itself is perched up on a subtle hill with the yard grading away on all four sides.

Previous owners finished about a quarter of the basement with a new full bath and laundry. Concrete floor was cut into and new plumbing/drain was put in for that as well as the kitchen and bathroom on the first floor. The construction in the basement was late 90’s and 2005 from the permits I looked up. They put in 2×4 with kraft backed fiberglass batts, a poly layer then sheetrock. Not ideal, but I decided to sacrifice one portion of the construction and all the material is clean. No mold or dampness. Pink batting wasn’t even discolored. I may end up cutting into it and repairing it but I would rather leave it for now and get he rest of the basement finished to save on heating costs and make that useable before tackle that.

The rest of the basement is (now) bare concrete wall. Around 550sq feet of wall surface (if my math is right…).

I am thinking:
1.5 inches of Dow Cladmate (R7.5) attached with adhesive to the walls then
2×4 framing (24 on center) with Roxul (r15)
followed by drywall.

On the floor I was thinking Delta FL dimple mat (on top of geotextile fabric to reduce noise of the dimple mat) and then laminate flooring or maybe engineered hardwood floor.

In regard to the framing, I had read on a blog where someone was using composite deck material screwed to pressure treated wood as the bottom plate and then used tapcons to attach that to the cement floor – the composite decking would help eliminate any wicking of water up into the pressure treated and regular lumber if there was water issue. Has anyone tried this? is it worth that extra step?

Also, I am a bit confused on the type of adhesive and tape to use on the XPS. Is there a preferred product? I read online about some instances where Tyvek and other tapes were coming off after a short time (weeks/months). Dow seems to suggest this:
http://building.dow.com/na/en/products/specialty/wmtape.htm

As mentioned, the exterior of the house is brick veneer. The floor joists are set into the concrete pour. From what I have read this probably isn’t ideal but a lot of the houses around here are the same configuration. There is no rot or water damage on the joists where they set in the concrete. The sill sitting on either side of the house running parallel with the joists looks good. I am a bit confused on sealing up the rim joists. Is there potential for trapping moisture on the end of the joists if I use foamboard and Great Stuff to seal it up? there isn’t an issue now, but it has been open to the air for 80+ years. Is there a rule for how to deal with joists set in the foundation?

This is a great site, learned a lot so far.

Thanks