Window replacements: egress question
I live in the Midwest. Had a second contractor just give me a quote on replacement windows today. Told me their is a national code that in the bedrooms, in which mine are casements (crank out windows) that I must replace them with the same kind (instead of doublehung that I was wanting) – due to possible fire in a house and occupant escape route thru a window.
Is this true and if so how long has this been in effect? First company made NO mention of this code and was figuring on installing double-hung windows in all three bedrooms. Which one is correct (both have been in the window replacement for some time)?
Thanks for your quick response,
C-
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Replies
Cheryl,
The are building codes that mandates the minimum width, height and total opening of a window depending where is located; 1st floor or second floor, distance from the window opening to ground, etc, etc. Without knowing what you have for existing window, the location on the house or distance to the ground, it would be impossible to answer your question. Your salesperson could be correct.
Cheryl,
According to the International Residential code, every bedroom needs a window with a sill (stool) height of not more than 44 inches above the floor. The min. width of the opening is 20 in.; the min. height of the opening is 24 in.; and the min. net clear area of the opening is either 5.0 sf (ground floor) or 5.7 sf (upper floors).
Egress window requirements:
1. Sill height is no more than 44”
2. Clear opening of 5.7 sq. ft.; exception: 5.0 sq ft if on grade floor.
3. Minimum net clear height opening of 24”
4. Minimum net clear width opening of 20”
Typically, a 36” wide by 60” tall double hung window will meet egress. Sometimes, depending on manufacturer it may need to be a bit larger.
Cheryl,
These egress requirements, though they've been modified and updated, have been part of building codes for as long as I've been building (30+ years).
Every window manufacturer should annotate their window sizing chart with a symbol (typically E1 and E2) to denote which units qualify for egress.
Either contractor may be correct depending on how your local code officials apply the IR code. In my area you may generally replace like-for-like even if the previous windows were non-compliant, but I do not know how they'd react to the replacement of a compliant window with a non-compliant one. Perhaps your first contractor was not planning to apply for a permit?
Code issues apart please consider sticking with the casements: they are implicitly more energy-efficient than double-hungs (this is a green building website after all, not a 'how-to-bend-the-rules' forum), and code or no code, they are safer in a fire and will allow you and your loved ones a more effective escape path.
Give the second contractor some credit for actually knowing and caring about the code. What type of windows are you planning on getting, and what is the reason for replacement?
My current windows are the original and the house was built in mid 1960. It's a split entry so the outside of the windows don't get cleaned except for the rain storms. Plus they are drafty - some of the latches are broken. I'm sure new are much more energy efficient. A third window company came out and said the house was a dificult project - they have no modling/frame around any of the windows and there is maybe a 1/2 inch sill and goes straight to a drywall edge that has wall paper. He wants to cut out the entire frame cause he said once he saws into the frame we won't get a tight seal from drafts, etc. "Caching' - this project is going sky high in price since there are three of these types of windows to reframe (LR has three pane unit, FR has 3 pane unit and one bedroom has two pane unit). How do people such as myself, that are retired do it on no imcome coming in?
If you don't have money for replacement windows, you can simply use Mortite clay rope caulk to seal the drafty sash edges and install plastic film interior storm windows in the winter. These products are available at any hardware of building supply store and are very inexpensive.
If you do the work by the end of the year - you will be eligible for the $1500 tax credit - may help with your financial issues. Another option to consider if you are on a tight budget is to install an interior storm window. They are friction fit but very tight and will stop the draftiness. Not an ideal solution but good value.
As for the egress - as everyone has stated there are in fact egress codes but I have never heard of a code that would not allow you to switch the type of window. In fact going from casement to double hung has less egress issues than going from double hung to casement if you have a narrow existing window - most casements need a little more width (rough opening/frame size) to meet the egress requirements due to the fact that the window is still within the frame opening when in the open position.