Replies

1. 
   wjrobinson | Jan 26, 2011 10:53pm | #1

   PL premium polyurethane construction adhesive is what I use because I also use Huber products.

   http://huberwood.com/

   Michael Chandler has a make your own gasket method, and uses strips of foam sill seal, he may post here or search for the thread.

2. 
   David Meiland | Jan 26, 2011 11:28pm | #2

   Won't PL Premium foam up and make a mess if installed at the plate/subfloor intersection?

   I would use an acrylic caulk for something like that. Big Stretch would be a good choice, in white so you can see where you've done and where you haven't.

3. 
   Daniel Morrison | Jan 26, 2011 11:29pm | #3

   Eric,
   This article may help: http://www.finehomebuilding.com/how-to/articles/making-sense-of-caulks-sealants.aspx?
   Dan
   P.S. I like Big Stretch too.

4. 
   wjrobinson | Jan 26, 2011 11:34pm | #4

   David, the glue is put down between the layers such as before a wall is tipped up and prior to placing sheathing on a frame.

   Now if you are going to run beads along finished work at seams then use a top end flexible caulk of which there are a few, green and not so green, and the VOCs are dropping for most products as mandates across the country are pushing this.

5. 
   wjrobinson | Jan 26, 2011 11:42pm | #5

   Just to add emphasis, why caulk after? When building new, I always run beads between layers not after.

   I also have built many log home kits. The best most expensive gaskets and caulks are used in the log kit home industry. Search google for log home caulks and gaskets and you will find ample info and supplies.

   Search Sikaflex, I have used hundreds of tubes of it over the last 3 decades.

6. 
   ericyancey | Jan 26, 2011 11:47pm | #6

   Thanks everyone. The reason I'm caulking after is that the framing has been completed and there wasn't much done while the framing was being done. My builder, while competent and really good to work with, isn't necessarily up on making things super tight (for example he balked at doing the layer of exterior foam that I specified but relented after I explained why I wanted it). Not to delve into it too much, but in the area I'm building there aren't a ton of builders and I went with the best I could find. Adding to the complexity, I live 2 hours away from the construction site so I'm not there every day to check on things. As I write this it sounds worse than it is...I've been happy with most things so far and the builder has been pretty accomodating.

   Thanks again!

7. 
   wjrobinson | Jan 27, 2011 12:01am | #7

   None of us like the Pink Panther folks but for after the fact sealing and prior to insulating. they have the best product going for sealing all of your frame. I priced it out at a $1.00 per sqft of your building. If you are building a 1,000 sqft addition it would be around $1,000 to have a contractor do the work. You can find certified contractors at the Pink Panther website.

   http://www.ocenergycomplete.com/homeowners/

   here is a recent blog to do with this product

   https://www.greenbuildingadvisor.com/blogs/dept/green-building-curmudgeon/how-green-my-pink

8. 
   ericyancey | Jan 27, 2011 12:09am | #8

   Thanks AJ for all of your help and time. I'll look at the pink panther stuff. I don't have a problem with doing the work myself...if I had it my way I'd be up there swinging a hammer every day but it just isn't possible. I'm up there on the weekends doing other work on the house so maybe I'll get to the sealing of the framing this weekend.

   Thanks again.

9. 
   Chris | Jan 27, 2011 08:04am | #9

   Also check out Knauf's new EcoSeal. Its a latex elastomeric with virtually no VOC's. Water based so easy to work with and clean up. Applied via airless sprayer. Check out their website.