Walkout frame to basement connection – big problem!
I have what seems to be a major issue – to me anyway. as you will see in the photos, I have a framed walkout basement wall with concrete retaining walls at a 90degree angle to both ends. How in the world do I flash/seal this from the outside to ensure that air/WATER does not enter?
-House will be covered in brick veneer
-Retaining walls will be covered in brick veneer
I leave for two days and this is what happens… framer does not insert sill seal gasket between vertical wall stud and concrete (this will change tomorrow).
Is there anything else that can possibly be done besides putting the gasket in?
Flash from outside?
I am at a loss on this and all I can think about is cold air and water infiltrating into my basement for the next 30 years.
VIEW FROM OUT:
http://i1338.photobucket.com/albums/o692/jaymack1979/house1_zps1b80f42f.jpg
VIEW FROM IN:
http://i1338.photobucket.com/albums/o692/jaymack1979/hosue4_zps6dbab179.jpg
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Replies
You need to read the blog post comments in this GBA link...
https://www.greenbuildingadvisor.com/community/forum/gba-pro-help/23771/sill-gasket
and here is a picture from the Pink Panther for reference...
http://insulation.owenscorning.ca/assets/0/188/48a3e065-8ac3-4af8-8219-c752ec0b8d3b.pdf
What To Say
Jeremy,
Ideally, the specifications for any construction project should include details for required capillary breaks. The best work includes a capillary break between the concrete footing and a concrete foundation wall. Moreover, a capillary break (usually, sill seal made of closed-cell foam) between the concrete wall and any wood framing is required by most building codes.
So, step one is to consult your local building code and your specifications and scope of work. These documents might be useful as you try to convince your contractor to do a better job.
If you need to proceed with this construction project, the best way to seal the exterior to prevent water entry and air leakage is with Siga Wigluv tape.
Once the exterior has been taped, you will probably want to seal the crack on the interior with a high-quality polyurethane or silicone caulk.
If possible, I'd use a rubber gasket, as opposed to foam sill sealer. You'll need to remove and reinstall the stud. Check out the gaskets at Conservation Resources.
Martin - No building code whatsoever here - I have found this to be both good and bad. The framers installed the foam sill gasket yesterday (as best as they could for a retrofit anyway. Rubber gasket was going to be a big challenge since the floor system is sitting on top of these "end studs"(?) which has the main level framing on top of that.
With that being said, I have read your study about the Siga tape. Which Siga product do you feel comfortable with for a CONCRETE to OSB connection in these two inside 90 degree exterior corners? How should this incorporated with the Tyvek?
Also, should I expect the brick mason to install the flashing on this vertical wall portion?
Thanks again
Jeremy: call Jason at Performance Building Supply, 207-780-1500. He'll be able to advise you about which Sega tape will work.
Jeremy,
I just got off the phone with Albert Rooks at the Small Planet Workship (a distributor of Siga tapes). Albert confirmed that my advice was correct: the tape you want to use is Siga Wigluv. Siga Wigluv sticks to concrete, OSB, and plywood.
For the best possible bond to concrete, you probably want to apply Dockskin primer to the concrete before taping. Small Planet Workshop sells both Dockskin primer and Siga Wigluv tape.
Jeremy,
Q. "How should the Siga Wigluv tape be incorporated with the Tyvek?"
A. The Tyvek will lap over the Siga Wigluv. You will probably want to tape the bottom of the Tyvek with Tyvek tape (in accordance with Tyvek installation instructions). This Tyvek tape will probably connect the bottom of the Tyvek with a narrow band (an exposed portion) of the Siga Wigluv.
Q. "Should I expect the brick mason to install the flashing on this vertical wall portion?"
A. Your mason should be thoroughly familiar with proper flashing procedures for a brick veneer job. However, just because he should be, doesn't mean he will be. To protect yourself, (a) you need good construction documents that include specifications, a scope of work, and detail drawings; or (b) you need to educate yourself about best flashing practices, and personally oversee the work.
Martin said it best.... "However, just because he should be, doesn't mean he will be. To protect yourself, (a) you need good construction documents that include specifications, a scope of work, and detail drawings; or (b) you need to educate yourself about best flashing practices, and personally oversee the work."
Martin - Thank you once again. SigaWigluv and Dockskin have been ordered. Scope of work will be clear on EVERY sub operation from this point forward. My architect provided me with very little detail on anything except the foundation plan and floor system. Hopefully this will be the last house I ever build... as I sit here and watch it pour rain onto a structure with no roof.