Vertical cedar rainscreen using t1-11 to keep from doubling up furring strips.
One section of our remodel will have vertical cedar T&G. Due to window heights I’d prefer to not come out past 1 3/8 – The proud measurement of the windows off the sheathing.I’m wondering if 1/2″ t1-11 installed horizontally, which would give at least give some vertical airflow might provide enough bite for the ring shank nails. I’m in zone 5 and it’s very dry most of the year so not much concern here, and I’d also space the horizontal strips so that every 4′ there would be an inch gap or so.This would give me a combined 1″ minimum for the stainless siding nails to go into.Sorry for the weird composition of this paragraph.If I don’t do run on sentences GBA puts a video ad in the middle of my question.
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Mike,
Where you are that's probably fine - and a lot better than no rain-screen at all. It provides a capillary break - which is one of the main benefits of the gap, as well as allowing both the wall and cladding to dry into the cavity.
A better solution would be Cor-a-Vent strips, but they are pricey compared to your suggestion.
The problem with coravent is that everywhere I read cedar should have 1.25 into solid lumber. I called the western red cedar foundation (or whatever that cedar non profit is) said that the OSB+Plywood would count towards the solid lumber requirement, so I'm close there but if I did coravent that's not giving enough hold at all.
Mike,
I think your plan is fine.
Thanks Malcom
if your worried about it you could get a case of 1/8" horseshoe shims and stick them behind where you fasten. if you use screws to fasten rainscreen you could just drop them over the screw before tightening. if nails are used you could just temp tape them at stud locations and rainscreen board would hold them after attachment.
smart idea.