GBA Logo horizontal Facebook LinkedIn Email Pinterest Twitter X Instagram YouTube Icon Navigation Search Icon Main Search Icon Video Play Icon Plus Icon Minus Icon Picture icon Hamburger Icon Close Icon Sorted

Community and Q&A

Rainscreen with HardiePlank Siding

canada_deck | Posted in General Questions on

The energy efficient shed project is coming along well and now I’m working on the trim and furring strips before installing siding.  I have a few questions.

1) How far from the end of a run of siding can the furring strip be located?
For example, do I need furring strips that butt up against the edges of the doors and against the corners so I can put a nail in the last inch of each piece of siding or is it OK if the nearest strip is a few inches away?

2) There are some really tricky details involved in wrapping the corners at the bird box and integrating into the frieze board (with the ventilation gap underneath) at that specific location.  I need to do some carpentry tricks and I don’t want to use the hardie trim because I don’t think it will be strong enough and it’s a bit annoying to work with (e.g. I need a piece that is 6″*3/4″*1″ to fill a gap).  I assume I can use any wood for the purpose and paint it to match?

3) I am using the 8 1/4″ lap siding boards.  I can cover the wall with 13 boards with the minimum overlap but I have enough material to go to 14 boards if I increase the overlap (decrease the reveal.)  I’d like to adjust the reveal to match what is on my house if I can.  Is there any downside to increasing the overlap?  I could find a minimum overlap in the specs but nothing about a maximum overlap.

GBA Prime

Join the leading community of building science experts

Become a GBA Prime member and get instant access to the latest developments in green building, research, and reports from the field.

Replies

  1. jamesboris | | #1

    1) Based on a few experiences with Hardie, I'd think "a few inches" should be okay -- but these engineered sidings typically have manuals that mention all that stuff, or you can call them and ask.

    2) For wood, I'd use a rot-resistant wood like cedar or potentially good KDAT if you can find it and it isn't warped out of the box. If cedar, go over it with an oil-based alkyd primer to start, and potentially a stain-blocker like the Zinsser spray at any knots. The additional cost over untreated pine is well worth it for a board you really never want to replace.

    3) I suspect that fastener length could be the issue here, but can't say for sure.

  2. JC72 | | #2

    Perhaps some solutions can be found here -

    https://hammerandhand.com/best-practices/manual/4-rain-screens/

Log in or create an account to post an answer.

Community

Recent Questions and Replies

  • |
  • |
  • |
  • |