Replies

1. Expert Member
   BILL WICHERS | Jan 07, 2025 02:10pm | #1

   Don't use galvanized. Galvanized will eventually rot out, at least at the edges.

   I would go with stainless steel here, which will likely be cheaper than copper. You might be able to have them use 303 stainless instead of 304, which will be even cheaper if they don't have any issues with minimum orders on the material. 303 is a less fancy stainless steel alloy commonly used for making things like outdoor rated stainless steel electrical switchgear.

   I would expect stainless steel to hold up better over time than galvanized for sure, and likely better than copper also. Current copper prices tend to make copper the most expensive option, so I'd only use it areas where you want the look of copper, and keep in mind that that "look of copper" will be the green patina as the copper corrodes -- it will not stay that new orange color forever, it will get dark/dull brown, and gradually a sort of seafoam green color.

   Bill

2. 
   cs55 | Jan 07, 2025 02:53pm | #2

   yea, i figured that for the galvanized. just isn't worth saving $50.

   pricing isn't too bad between either. a 4"x10' roll of 24 gauge of 304 is about $55-60, and copper of 22-24 gauge is about the same.

   looks like i can get 4" 24 gauge 303 sheets locally, but they are more expensive than 4" 24 gauge 304 rolls.

   thanks for the input, i think ill go with stainless.

1. Expert Member
   BILL WICHERS | Jan 07, 2025 03:26pm | #3

   304 will be more corrosion resistant than 303, so if they cost the same, 304 is the "higher end" option. I think 304 will work fine for you and should last pretty much forever.

   BTW, most "galvanized sheet steel" is flash galvanized, not hot dipped. It is better than bare steel, but not anywhere near as durable as the hot dipped stuff. Plus, whenever it's sheared, you expose a bare edge of "regular" steel that starts to rust out. Lots of reasons that's not the way to go here.

   One last thing: I don't think you really need the closed hem drip edge. I think you'd be fine with a straight sheared edge there. You could always deburr it if you want to avoid a sharp edge. There are tools for that, but a sheet of emory cloth is usually enough to round the edge enough to remove any sharpness. Saving a fab step might save you some money. My own fab shop doesn't have the ability to form a bend all the way over like that either, so if you haven't checked with your fab guys yet, that might be an issue for them too.

   Bill

1. 
   cs55 | Jan 07, 2025 05:46pm | #4

   "One last thing: I don't think you really need the closed hem drip edge."

   ahh, i thought it was functional for like water wicking or something. i just sent them a photo in the first post and they said no problem.

   on a side note, finally got a local masonry supply company to pick up and they carry 8' 26 gauge 304 SS pre fabricated flashing for $20. which is about $120 cheaper than buying a roll of 24 gauge + paying for labor.

   thanks again for the useful info :)

3. 
   user-5946022 | Jan 07, 2025 10:31pm | #5

   This drip edge will sit on and come in contact with the lintel.
   Use 304 Stainless.
   - See above previous poster replies for notes about why not to use galvanized
   - Copper touching the steel lintel will create corrosion due to dissimilar metals