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Community and Q&A

Silly sills

rocksteadily | Posted in Energy Efficiency and Durability on

Hello,

My name’s Derek. I’m framing my first house in beautiful northern Michigan, and I’m loving every second of it. I snapped chalk lines and marked where my anchor bolts were, but experienced a bit of a learning curve. Some of my sills have somewhat random 1/2″ holes in them, no more than 4 per 12′ sill. Is this a problem in any way? 

Secondly, my sill bolts (which my concrete contractor installed) are relatively short to the point that I had to countersink the majority of my bolt holes with a 1.5″ Forstner bit around the 1/2″ bolts about 5/8″ deep to fit the washer and nut. Is this a problem in any way?

Thirdly, a couple of my sills are cupping like crazy–maybe 5/8″ off the foundation in places. This is not helped by the fact that the anchor bolts are not centered on the sill and are typically 1.5-2″ from the interior edge of the sill. I have complete confidence that the weight of the building will iron this out no problem, but I’m concerned about the annoyance this will cause as I frame out the first floor assembly.

Finally, I have the classic role of “sill sealer,” which I am considering a capillary break more than an air seal since my primary air barrier will be the caulked and taped zip sheathing where it’s nailed to the sill. I’m probably paranoid (a side effect of reading this website too frequently), but is this enough of a capillary break from the foundation? Should I do something else?

My perimeter is only 112 feet. I’m half considering cutting the anchor bolts and reinstalling all of the sills using Simpson Titen bolts. I feel like this would solve all of my problems at this crucial juncture for a couple hundred bucks, but I’m curious what more experienced builders think.

Thanks!

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Replies

  1. Expert Member
    Michael Maines | | #1

    Derek, I think that's how we all learn to locate mudsill bolt holes. Not a problem.

    Countersinking the heads isn't ideal; my specifications say no countersinking, but it's not a code violation and should be ok unless you're in a seismically active area. Even then, it's probably not a big issue.

    The IRC building code does state that bolts need to be in the center third of the mudsill, and you're right that cupping will be a pain during framing. To remedy both, you could drill and install Simpson Titen HD anchor bolts. Or you could flood the surface with water, which should help flatten the sills.

    Sill sealer is a decent capillary break. It's never a good air seal. Taped sheathing is good but you should also plan to use tape or sealant to continue the air control layer to the foundation walls. I like using Siga Fentrim tape for that; it sticks well to clean concrete and is available in a gray color that matches the concrete pretty well.

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