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shoulder season humidity passive house

jm_keenan | Posted in Mechanicals on

Hey – I know this has been asked and answered before, just want to run what I’m doing to see if it makes sense.

I have a passive house retrofit in NYC – 2 stories, 1600 sq ft + a basement that is _mostly_ outside the passive house envelope.

About three weeks ago, the interior RH starting getting really bad – depending the device anywhere from 62-75% (yikes).

I have 4 standalone ERVs (zehnder comfortair 70s); a 2 zone LG VRF heat pump; 2 mini splits in the basement.

I mentioned that the basement is _mostly_ outside the envelope. The mechanical closet that holds the air handler is in the basement and inside the envelope, there is a gasketed door and a cold air return duct in the living room floor connected to it.

I figured from what I’ve read here the following:
the VRF is oversized
the ERVs are pulling in or creating humidity (less than would happen from a leaky house but still something)
running AC isn’t helping b/c VRF oversized and temps aren’t low enough even with the fan on low for the coil to remove that much heat.

So I did the following
– I removed the gasketed door to the basement
– I added a dehumidifier to the basement
– I’m running the minisplits in the basement on a constant temp of 72
– I’m running the fan on the 2 zone VRF system to circulate the air in the house

So I’ve kind of de passivized my passive house 🙂 

Here are my concerns:
— should I get the VRF looked at? I did try to run the the dry mode and AC before and like I said house was stuck with RH between 65-75. Could the VRF have an issue? (My guess is no) (I changed / cleaned all filters fwiw)
– Air quality – so far my monitors are reporting 0 pm2.5 / pm 10 and with teh current setup, the VOCs being reported are much lower too. 
– efficiency – is running two mini splits full time and occasionally running the main house A/c efficient (I run the A/c at night and maybe for an hour or two in the late afternoon, like 7-8, if I’m doing something active like cleaning or cooking)
– fan – does it matter how fast / slow I run the fan? How could I test this? 
– pressure – am I messing up with the pressure of my passive house by essentially leaving a door open all the time (the gasketed door to the air handler in the basement)
– Anything else I’m not considering? 

I might try to add a whole house dehumidifier but I’m kind of thinking that if a portable unit is doing the job for $400, I don’t need to invest in something far more complicated. (also my summer time electric is all solar (and the grid is 1:1 exchange and I overproduce) so increased efficiency has to be really high to justify a change.

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Replies

  1. Expert Member
    DCcontrarian | | #1

    Each resident of the house puts about five pints a day of moisture into the air, from bathing, cooking, breathing. That moisture needs to be removed. If the dew point outside is lower than your target dew point inside, the moisture can be removed by ventilation, if not it has to be removed by active dehumidification, either air conditioning or dehumidifier.

    In addition, any humidity that leaks in has to be removed. If the outside dew point is high outside air can be a source. If it's leaking in through the basement that should be blocked with a vapor barrier.

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