Screws For Attaching Window Bucks
Cottagebuilder
| Posted in General Questions on
We are attaching 3inx1.5in window bucks for our exterior insulation. I was planning to use Fastenmaster ledgerlok however, they seem a little too beefy and the price to use these to attach all our window bucks really adds up. My plan is to use 4.5in or 5in screws so it goes through the 3in window buck, 7/16 sheathing, then about 1.5in embedment in the window framing. Would long deck screws work? Or should I stick with fastenmaster screws? Or is there another alternative?
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Replies
Cottagebuilder,
If your time is more available than your cash I can suggest two ways to allow for shorter and cheaper screws.
Most basic would be to set up a station with some form of spacing marks to keep things orderly and simply drill a preset depth with a speedbore bit or forstner bit. The forstner will be slower, but cleaner and less likely to dive into the wood. A small drill press would help a lot. If not available then a stop collar on a 1/2 bit would do. Drill about half depth of the buck and use deck screws and some framing glue to attach. Use a bit extender or buy a long shaft bit driver for the screws you plan to use.
If you happen to have a Kreg pocket screw guide and bit (and again the time) set up a clamping station and put pockets on alternating sides. You might be able to use 2 1/4-1/2" screws this way. Framing glue, too.
If you don't have a Kreg pocket screw guide, but you do have a small drill press to have on site, then make an angled cradle to hold the buck stock at about a 30 degree angle relative to the drill bit path. A brad point, forstner or some speedbore types would work without too much angst. Dimple the buck stock sides about an inch above the sheathing contact face, again alternating sides to ensure square contact over time. Framing glue as well.
It may be possible to put large enough dimples with this last method using a forstner bit to allow use of a framing gun. If the nose fits in and sets a nail within the dimple edge it shouldn't interfere with fitting the window or flashing tapes. Ring shank nails and framing glue should keep the bucks in place over time as well as screws, but I have not tried this in practice.
A possible dodge to all the fussy drill press set up might be a plunge router with a 90 degree V-groove bit or a flat bottom V-groove bit. Set the plunge depth to just enough to create a surface that will fit the screw head width and jab your self feeding screws (like deck screws) at 45 degree angle to the buck's side face. The screw should feed in at that angle and the head will finish up buried in the soft wood enough to be out the way. Maybe a nail gun would work here too.
A 90 degree 1/2" V-groove bit is available at HD for 40 bucks. Other sources, other sizes and prices. Do stop and count how many 5" screws you will need and of course how long you want to drag out the buck installation. Cost benefit ratio is up to you.
Cottagebuilder,
I'd use something in-between a structural and deck screw. A good construction screw like a GRK R4.
If you need a lot of long screws, the lowest cost option I have found is roofing deck screws. These are used in commercial flat roofs to hold down rigid insulation and come in long length for much less than anything at a box store.
For a small job like this, another option is to toe nail the bucks with a framing nailer. Unless you are putting a 300lb tilt and slide on there, its not going anywhere.
Great, thanks everyone for your input. These are great options. I will try to find 5in screws locally.