Replies

1. Expert Member
   BILL WICHERS | Feb 09, 2019 09:26pm | #1

   I would have thought you’d have gotten some other answers by now. Anyway, I, am not familiar with denarco gaskets ad I’ve always used either caulk or acoustical sealant, and sometimes canned foam. Don’t use canned foam where you should use caulk, it doesn’t work very well for that. I was in a jam one day and had no choice.

   I’d say seal up the drywall as airtight as you can. It won’t hurt, might help even if you don’t do it all, and if you replace the rest down the road you’re working towards sealing everything. I haven found that using sealant really adds much labor to the job. All the labor is in the finishing work anyway.

   Bill

2. GBA Editor
   Martin Holladay | Feb 10, 2019 06:07am | #2

   Giovanni,
   Paying attention to airtightness always makes sense, especially in renovation work. (After all, at this point you don't really have control over whether your wall sheathing was installed in an airtight manner.)

   Using gaskets or caulk to make sure that you don't have air leaks at the perimeter of your drywall planes makes sense. You should also strive to reduce air leakage at electrical outlets.

1. 
   Cz4a_Giovanni | Feb 10, 2019 12:47pm | #4

   Matin, thx for the pointers. I came to the same conclusion as well, better to have only a pint of humid air (coming from minimal square footage) verses somthing like 2ct 5 gallon buckets of humid air coming through the gaps.

   Regarding outlets, use fireproof caulk on backside holes of old metal outlets or canned foam? I read somewhere that the foam may possibly ignite? Unsure if this is hogwash or not...

3. 
   Cz4a_Giovanni | Feb 10, 2019 12:40pm | #3

   Thx for your advice Bill, i had come to the same conclusion since the main purpose was to cut back humid air entering from the house through the gaps in my 4a climate zone.