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Recessed Window Leaking help

GROUNDUP | Posted in General Questions on

My new construction home is 1.5 years old from completion. We are noticing issues around all of our recessed windows. See photos. This includes staining from the cedar siding, water pooling, and staining in corners. I cant tell if the water is in the wall as there are no signs of water damage on the inside. 

I know during construction these windows were installed not recessed and after comments from architect they were reinstalled recessed. Here are photos of the windows before the siding was installed. 

Can anyone tell me if the window flashing and install details look correct? what could be causing this? do you think there is concern that they could be leaking in the cavity? And most important what is the best way to fix this. I appreciate the help! Thank you !

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Replies

  1. Expert Member
    DCcontrarian | | #1

    What's supposed to happen is that the flashing waterproofs the window and directs water down behind the back of the siding and trim. It's hard to tell from the photos, but it looks like that's what could be happening and the trim and siding are getting wet from behind. Do you know if the siding and trim were primed on all six sides before installation?

    1. GROUNDUP | | #2

      Hi-- the siding was def not painted on all 6 sides. I can even see the cedar under. The trim I think is PVC. its concentrating on the right side of this particular window and is not happening with the non recessed windows.... Also there is no rain screen or gap if that makes a difference

  2. strausjw | | #3

    Recessed windows obviously have an extra set of inside corners that need to be flashed very carefully. Cannot tell from your photos, and probably would not be able to check them without removing the sills. Is most of the staining around the sill area or lower third of the window? Is the trim and siding mounted straight to the Blueskin or on a rainscreen? If on rainscreen, the water could be coming in from the top, depending on how the headflashing was detailed. From the photos it seems like the sill projection is not very big and there is no dripgroove to break the capillary action. Water could be running back under the bottom edge of the sill and getting behind the siding.

    1. GROUNDUP | | #4

      Thanks so much for looking. No rainscreen. Here is a photo from another recessed window so you can see here versus other window. Also more shots of window flashing. None are super clear but maybe you see something. Would you think the windows need to come out to fix if corners weren’t done correct?

      1. strausjw | | #6

        The actual window probably does not need to be removed. Just the sill, and unfortunately, all those mitered returns on the siding. Those pictures are all a bit blurry to draw any real conclusions, but I do not see any special attention paid to the outside corners. It may be done properly, but I would expect to see a piece of stretch/flex tape or liquid flashing in those corners. If the installer did not do it on the outside corners, they probably did not do any better on the inside corners. I suspect the sill is letting some water in, either on the sides, running underneath the nosing or where it butts up under the window. Seems like the moisture is getting kicked out onto the face of the siding, so maybe things are not too dire? Metal sills with soldered or bread-panned end dams could stop the water coming in, if that is the issue. Here is a good video of best practice for these types of installations: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KTD5gYkH52U

        1. GROUNDUP | | #8

          Thank you so much

  3. Expert Member
    Akos | | #5

    Just making sure, the window here isn't leaking into the house? The issue is the paint damage on the siding?

    The proper fix for this would have been to install the siding on a rain screen. This would allow any water that makes it behind the trim to drain down instead of collecting and damaging the paint. Unfortunately that ship has sailed.

    The next best thing is to remove the trim and install a metal sill pan. The pan should be sloped and drain out past your siding. Install the pan into the groove on the window and caulk to seal. The edges of the pan should be turned up to catch any water coming down behind the side trim. The trim can be installed over the pan spaced about 1/4" off to allow for drainage.

    You can try to seal the existing trim to the window but I think that will be a loosing battle as PVC trim moves way too much with temperature.

    1. GROUNDUP | | #9

      Thank you so much. We had a detailed rain screen on plans but it wasn’t followed and I didn’t know much at the time to ask. I’ll def try this fix. Thank you

  4. Malcolm_Taylor | | #7

    GROUNDUP,

    Forgive me, I don't have anything useful to add to the advice you have been given. I'm just curious as to why the architect had the windows moved to the interior?

    1. GROUNDUP | | #10

      It was always supposed to be recessed. The contractor just installed them flushed and then they were moved. Probably should have just kept them as is!

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