Replies

1. GBA Editor
   Martin Holladay | Oct 13, 2014 04:10pm | #1

   Dave,
   I suggest you start by reading this article: All About Radon.

   If you still have questions after reading the article, feel free to post them here.

2. 
   Richard Beyer | Oct 13, 2014 08:46pm | #2

   and these published by the EPA...

   http://www.epa.gov/radon/pubs/consguid.html

   http://www.epa.gov/radon/pubs/hmbyguid.html

   http://www.epa.gov/radon/pubs/citguide.html

   http://www.epa.gov/radon/realestate.html

   http://www.epa.gov/radon/pubs/mitstds.html

   http://www.epa.gov/radon/pubs/

3. 
   davemax21 | Oct 13, 2014 08:58pm | #3

   Thank you.
   I appreciate the information. Anything you guys would do at this point? Other than the standard EPA guidelines?

4. GBA Editor
   Martin Holladay | Oct 14, 2014 06:59am | #4

   Dave,
   Q. "Anything you guys would do at this point?"

   A. If the basement is unfinished, the relevant reading is the first-floor reading, which is below the action level. That means that no action is required.

   If you want a more accurate reading, you can perform a long-term test.

   Your original question implied that you were still interested in installing a radon mitigation system, even though your radon levels aren't particularly high -- which is of course possible to do if you want to do it. The required steps for installing a radon mitigation system in a house with an older slab without any crushed stone under the slab are described in my article, All About Radon. Any radon mitigation contractor should be familiar with the necessary work.

5. 
   davemax21 | Oct 14, 2014 09:02am | #5

   Thank you. I think i was just curious as to how they would install one with my basement floor. But the article you provided earlier answered my question, thank you all for that.

   Feeling better that the first floor reading is below the action level.

6. 
   Richard Beyer | Oct 15, 2014 10:56pm | #6

   Personally, I would not rely on a short term test as a basis to do nothing. Radon is not a constant. Training programs state the action level is 4 picocuries (pCi/L), but any action will reduce your exposure. Short term tests are also less definitive. The next question would be... which test method was used?

   Your soil type will require a minimum fan size shown here... http://radon.biz/fanselectiontable-1.aspx

   Note: Radon resistant new construction keeps radon below 2 pCi/L.

   My suggestion if you have children in the house, take action. Their lungs are more susceptible to lung cancer later in life. Next I suggest a long term test over 12 month's. If you have duct work running through your basement which services living space above take immediate action.

7. 
   davemax21 | Oct 16, 2014 08:54am | #7

   I used the charcoal canisters , a couple of months ago in the basement: 5.1 , short term , from RTCA?
   then used the envelope ones... sounds like anxiety, but did another short term basement, 6.5, and envelope in the living room. 2.7
   I plan on doing the long term test, at least 90 days.. now that heating season is here.
   Yes, there are ducts in the basement that serve living area. I used foil tape excessively one duct that was new ( replaced an old one). I plan on taping the others as well. I have a return duct of course in basement, and have already taped that quite heavily, and even closed off the furnace filter opening. There are no small children in the house.. my 85 year old mom has lived there for 55 years, excellent health! I lived there for 37, good health, negative chest xray, etc.. Will do what i can in basement , there are still some cracks in walls.. and an open sump pit,; these will get taken care of when french drain goes in. Walls sealed with hydraulic cement, and closed sump pit.

8. 
   Richard Beyer | Oct 16, 2014 04:34pm | #8

   Your basement testing is above the EPA action level and since you have heating ducts running from the basement to the upper floors you should take action in my opinion. Sealing up the ducts is not the answer since this will not prevent your combustion appliance from siphoning basement contaminated air throughout the house. Sealing the ducts will help your heating system deliver conditioned air more efficiently.

   Your Mom's health does not necessarily mean you will retain the same immune system since she was around before we chemically engineered our food and homes. Also by the time cancer shows up in a x-ray image, it's to late. A pulmonary function test is typically used to diagnose pulmonary issues. Having high radon in your home does not mean you will be the 1 in 1000 which will come down with lung cancer. That's all up to you if your willing to risk lung damage by not preventing something which is preventable with proper remediation.

   There is a digital meter on the market which is not accepted by the Radon measurement clubs yet. Maybe it's because it's a DIY tool. Some guys say its as accurate as professional equipment and then you have the other side making claims to. Use your judgement.
   This meter will measure short term radon after 48 hours from the first power up cycle and it measures long term.

   http://radon.biz/proseriesiiiradonmonitor.aspx

9. 
   davemax21 | Oct 16, 2014 09:12pm | #9

   The first floor is 2.7, doesn't matter if there are ducts in the basement, with the ducts, it is 2.7, even below the WHO limit. so, no action required. But thanks for your concern.

10. 
    Richard Beyer | Oct 17, 2014 01:05pm | #10

    David Mac,

    Your telling us that while the furnace is running and air is blowing through the existing duct system, which is passing through your basement, where the furnace is siphoning it's combustion air from, (in an area tested @5.1 to 6.5) your maximum radon level is 2.7 at the discharge ports into the room?

    I'm not buying this argument for a second. It may have substance if you have a piped in fresh air supply directly mounted to your furnace. Even then, as the air is forced through the duct system it's going to pull basement air naturally through leaky passage ways in your existing duct system since it will act a a vacuum cleaner.

    Either way... I'm not commenting any further on this thread. As the EPA states clearly, "You should use a contractor who is trained to fix radon problems".

    I was only trying to help. My Radon training manuals from one of two Radon approved training Universities state clearly the action level is 2.0 or higher and mandatory at 4.0 or higher.