Code Requirement for Electrical Outlet Near Minisplit
Kind of a technical question, but I’d value any input that anybody has. NEC 210.63 requires an electrical outlet to be installed in an “accessible” location within 25 feet of most HVAC equipment and on the “same level” as the equipment. https://up.codes/s/equipment-requiring-servicing
As shown in attached pics, I have a mini split ODU located 3-4 feet away from the door to my crawl space. If you open the door to my crawl space, there’s an outlet about 3-4 ft inside. So total distance from the mini split ODU to the outlet is less than 10 ft.
Anybody know if this arrangement will comply with 210.63? Seems to me that it qualifies as an “accessible” location, but maybe not? Clearly meets the 25 ft requirement. And I would guess it meets the “same level” requirement, but again… maybe not?
Anyways, would value any input as to folks think this would pass, or if I need to add an additional outlet on the outside of the house next to the crawl space door.
Thanks.
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Replies
The general interpretation of this rule in the trades is that the service outlet must be "within sight" of the equipment. That means if you're a maintenance tech, and you walk over to the equipment you're been contracted to service, you can look around and find the outlet without any difficulty. That's the intent of the code -- to provide power for maintenance work. In your situation, the outlet would not be "within sight" of the equipment for someone unfamiliar with your floorplan, so I'd say your existing outlet doesn't comply.
I have not seen this particular code enforced as aggressively in residential projects as it is on commerical projects. My advice to you would be to show your situation to your inspector IF THE ISSUE COMES UP, and see if they'll pass it. If you get a "No, that doesn't meet the code", then add an outlet near the equipment and tap it off of that nearby circuit. You need a GFCI receptacle for the outlet, and the inspector will probably want to see an in-use cover on it too.
Bill
Thanks for the info. And yeah, it would be pretty easy to add an outlet if the AHJ asks me to.
Ultimately, what matters is the opinion of your local code official, not our opinion.
And I think it could be argued either way. One easy thing you could do is put in a GFCI receptacle in the crawlspace ceiling outlet, in case that helps convince the inspector that it's valid to use for that purpose. If you do need to add an outdoor receptacle, it's pretty easy to do with that wiring available close by, and you might find it useful for other purposes as well.
Thanks for the response!
Since you will have a 240 volt disconnect for the heat pump consider getting one with a built in outlet.
https://www.amazon.com/Midwest-U065P010-Disconnect-Pullout-Receptacle/dp/B07DSSCZRG
Walta
Interesting. I didn't know those existed. But I think the NEC says that the required service outlet cannot be on the same circuit as the HVAC equipment.
I looked up article 210.63 for you. There is a note that the receptacle shall not be connected to the LOAD side of the equipment disconnecting means. If the outlet/box Walter listed has the outlet connected BEFORE the disconnect, then it should meet code for your application.
There is also an exception that says these service outlets are not required for service of evaporative coolers for one and two family homes which is interesting.
Bill
It would depend on the line for the compressor having a neutral, which is often not the case, and it would require either that the circuit for the minisplit be on a breaker no larger than 20 A, or a 15 or 20 A breaker in the box making that a little sub-panel.
Or just use it as a housing for the receptacle and run power from the crawlspace circuit.
Those outlets in the photo are only 15, correct? Can those go on a 20A breaker?
In the us, you can put a 15 amp receptacle on a 20 amp circuit but not vice versa. In canada, they have to match, either way.
You can use 15A or 20A receptacles on a 20A circuit. You cannot use either type on a 30A or larger circuit though. The reason actually comes from some UL rules about the minimum gauge for power cords.
A 20A receptacle would have a "T" shaped neutral slot, so the one in the pic is a 15A receptacle.
I'm not sure on Canadian code disallowing 15A receptacles on 20A circuits, so I'll defer to Charlie on that one. Note that I personally prefer to use only 20A receptacles on 20A circuits since there is near zero cost difference to do that. I also always use spec grade receptacles exclusively, which do cost more than the cheap-o builder grade, but they are vastly superior in plug retention and long-term durability, and they have much better wiring connections too. When I moved into my current home, one of the first things I did was to replace every receptacle in the house with spec grade units. It was maybe a few hundred dollars and a few days of my time, but it was worth it -- and I caught some loose connections and a few other wiring problems while I did it that I was able to correct.
Bill
My guess is the box I linked to will require a second wire on a different breaker to power the outlet.
As the 240-volt circuit is very unlikely to have a neutral wire even if you had the neutral you are not allowed to put a 20-amp outlet on a 60-amp breaker so separate circuits.
Walta
Your box might have an internal fuse. If it was designed for the purpose of easily tapping a service outlet off the feed, then it might have fusing. It would also require a neutral to be run for that outlet, since I doubt there is a transformer in that little box.
The usual way I spec these is to put a regular duplex receptacle mounted on the side of the equipment (which is common with packaged rooftop HVAC units commonly used on smaller commercial buildings), then feed that outlet with a regular 120v circuit coming up the same conduit that feeds the rooftop HVAC unit. You don't have to use a dedicated circuit for this outlet. I'll usually spec the outlets to share a single "service" circuit that will cover a region of a building. It's unusual for the serice outlet to have any load on it at all, so there is no point wasting a bunch of circuits to run several service outlets.
Bill