Product thoughts
In my quest to build, I would be interested to hear any feedback or criticism around the Thermobuilt system. ( http://www.thermobuilt.com/ for reference. I am not affiliated. )
I don’t really have a specific question. It’s always nice to hear input from to professionals on this site revolving around products.
Green-does this use nasty blowing agents? The product appears to be type 1 EPS. Good product? Something worthy?
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This product line uses EPS, which is almost universally blown with pentane, which has a fairly low global warming potential of ~7x CO2 (100 year potential), most of which leaves the foam at the factory and recaptured at the factor (to comply with local air pollution limits) , and sometimes burned for process heat.
There is some overlap at the framing on both the exterior & interior as a thermal break, but it looks pretty thin. In some ways it's better to keep the thermal break on one side of the framing, which allows one to inspect and address any gaps that may appear from shrinkage of the framing or foam during construction.
The fact that it's glued to the framing in each stud bay reduces the air leakage, but some amount of air sealing detailing will still be necessary, more so than would be required with site-blown foams.
As far as foam insulation goes Type-I EPS is on the green end of the scale, but compared to half-pound open cell polyurethane it's still no contest- the half-pound polyurethane has a lower overall lifecycle environmental impact. They use different polymers with different impacts per lb, but Type-I EPS has still about 2x the polymer per-R of half pound polyurethane, which is blown with even lower impact water rather than pentane.
Another difference between polystyrene & polyurethane: In the event of a fire EPS melts into a liquid while burning, whereas polyurethane chars in place.
Drew,
Like many companies introducing new products with energy-saving claims, ThermaBuilt has a web site with few technical details. It seems that they are offering 15-inch-wide or 23-inch-wide rectangles of EPS, with slots on the side to accommodate framing. They aren't offering any structural components. (SIPs, in contrast, are structural.)
If my conclusion is right -- this is an insulation-only system -- these questions arise: (1) Is EPS the best type of insulation to install between studs and rafters? (2) What are the air-sealing details in light of the fact that there are so many seams?
We recently completed our house shell using the Thermobuilt system. Check their website to view our build: http://www.thermobuilt.com/thermobuilt-project-showcase-2017/
The system itself is rather ingenious and was simply installed by my wife and I and a friend. It took us two summers (about 20 weeks) to get the final photo you see on their website. We chose not to pay the additional costs of flying a Thermobuilt representative to the job-site for assistance and were left with figuring many of the details and procedures on our own. Our biggest complaints are: the architect used was marginal at best with many mistakes and lots of delays in getting the plans to us for county approval. Another complaint was the use of Thermobuilt ICFs for our foundation walls. They are thin, require lots of additional onsite costs and fabrication with tenoning strips and internal hardware cloth reinforcing. We also added more structural support than recommended but still had numerous blowouts during the pour as well as resultant bulging, wavy walls and lots of concrete on the ground. I would never recommend their ICF panels in their present configuration. They need to be much thicker to support the weight and pour of the concrete. The ICFs also come in solid form and we were left with disposal of voluminous EPS waste. (Green?) We ended up using much of the waste for back fill.
As mentioned, the framing system goes up relatively easy although getting the top plates on required a home-devised jacking strap system to get the tops of the panels to come together. We went with the 2x8 construction so the walls are 9 1/2" wide in their finished state. All gaps and seams are filled with spray foam (lots of it) to make the house as air tight as possible. We also chose (optionally) to sheath the house with OSB for added structural stability and weather resistance since we won't get to the siding for another year (Hardiplank). Our county inspector was glad to see the sheathing since other foam homes in the area had been invaded by woodpeckers. The owner of Thermobuilt deals directly with the customer and is pleasant and always quick to reply via email or text. Lastly, the website claims the homes are DIY kits. Not so - these are truly a lumber package delivered by a local yard and you'd better know how to read prints and build a house. A kit it is not! There are no instructions of any kind.
Tim,
Thanks very much for sharing your experience.
Hey Guy's, Thought I'd give you some input on these builds. I hope the pictures post properly?
After all they do say a thousand words. As a builder I like this system better than all the others we have utilized or contemplated, and Here is why.
1.) unlike the other systems on the market today this system is very adaptable. If you can build it panelized or stick, this is a seamless replacement as an upgrade to a true energy saver!
2.) If you as a builder run up against a common problem (as we all have) such as a basement out of square or a last minute change (Extra window the owner not has to have) it can be easily done.
3.) The system comes complete! This is important to any builder / framer / owner builder, ok everyone! It comes with all framing materials, Lumber / connectors / straps per the print!
no delays once your subs show up!
4.) The prints are accurate, so even if you framers on a scale of 10 are less than an 8 but better than a 3, your build is going to be smooth.
We build and thing under 3000 sq ft. 6-9 days dryed in.
5.) Rough in's are easy especially wiring with the cases /and it makes the drywall hanging easy and the drywall on exterior walls feel exceptionally solid.
6.) Because of the blue prints and conventional lumber being utilized in a unique way it is efficient, but not a hard sell with building inspectors that aren't up to speed with the new methods of building.
7.) Specialty tools Under $500.00 / if you hire a framing contractor they will have everything if they've framed more than 2 homes in their career.
If you have any specific questions let me know, I usually have pics and info on how it's done !
JK
The cost savings in our experience is significant over stick built, and slightly more than panelized or conventional SIP's. How ever it still is a savings due to the lack of need for heavy equipment.
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more pics
We live in Georgia and we are considering building a home using the Thermobuilt system. The company is located an hour from our home site. I'm wondering if it is difficult to find subcontractors who have experience using this system. I can't find much information about the company and what it is like to work with them despite being located so close to them.
Julie,
I have a lot of experience with home building. I exclusively specify utilizing the Thermobuilt System to my customers and clients. I provide consulting services for owners and builders as well as onsite training of framers, roofers, window and door installers, as well as hvac and electrical in the construction of Thermobuilt System builds. I have been involved in several projects in GA, PA, TN, MO, OH.
It is not difficult to find a contractors, but finding and interviewing to ensure you get a good one is the trick. Depending on you tolerance for for dealing with people and knowledge of different trades you may want to take on the project as an owner builder. I provide services training framers, roofers, window and door installers, as well as hvac and electrical in the construction of Thermobuilt System builds.
If you need help with some or any of these things or guidance in the selection of products.
I would be very happy to help! Let me know.
I can be reached via email @[email protected]