Please review this window retrofit and provide feedback
milwaukee
| Posted in General Questions on
Can I get feed back if the pictures tell the story of a good window install.
Thanks
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Replies
Alexander,
It's hard to tell everything from the photos, but from what I would see, I would say: so far, so good.
Alexander,
One challenge you face is detailing the exterior sill. I don't think that sloped bricks and mortar can be used as roofing or as a window sill (although I've seen it). In most climates, water will penetrate the cracks between the bricks and mortar, and freeze/thaw damage will cause deterioration. The best solution is to cover the brick sill with copper flashing, although other types of metal flashing will also work.
hi there, thanks for the response. Any photos you need may help, let me know. Have you ever seen this done like this before.
Alexander,
So far, you seem to be following standard methods for flashing a rough opening. Your WRB is on the exterior sheathing, followed by an air gap and your brick veneer (on the exterior side of the WRB).
The problem comes when you install the window. You need to make sure that the metal flashing you install to cover the brick sill extends under your window, so that any wind-driven rain that hits the window and dribbles down will be directed by your metal flashing to the exterior of the brick veneer.
If you decide to ignore my advice and skip the metal flashing, the water that sits on the brick sill and filters through the cracks between the bricks and mortar probably won't cause any problems, because these leaks will be on the exterior side of your WRB. But over time, if you live in a cold climate, freeze/thaw damage will tend to break apart this brick sill.
Thanks for the advice. The original window before is 32 years old. So basically all i have done, is add slope and membrane the opening. So should i put a metal pan on top of the blueskin and extend it all the way to the exterior brick sill?
thanks again