Performance Implications of Aesthetic Choices
I’m looking for information on the performance/durability implications of a couple of choices I am considering for my new high performance home and would appreciate input and information you all can share. The home will be built in Climate Zone 7 in Wyoming, with a high amount of annual snowfall in winter and chance of exposure to wildfires in the summer.
Choice 1: roof overhangs or not. I really like the clean, modern look of no overhangs and plan to install a standing seam metal roof. This Solsken/ecocor model is pretty close to what I’m planning to build: https://ecocor.us/portfolio/clover/. But on GBA and from others I’m getting input that no roof overhangs is not a good way to go. Thoughts? If zero or close to zero overhang for a vented roof, what are some best practices? And if not zero overhang, what is a reasonable compromise to minimize the size of the overhang while ensuring durability of my investment?
Choice 2: siding. I’m buying prefab wall panels from Collective Carpentry in Canada that will have a Solitex Mento 1000 outside WRB and 1×4 outside strapping for a rainscreen, with an outside frame comprised of 9-1/2 inch I-joists filled with dense pack cellulose (think Larsen truss) and Agepan DWD outside sheathing. Aesthetically I’m drawn to a style of siding installation that installs clapboards horizontally with a gap vertically between each board. I would estimate the gap between each row of siding boards is approximately 5-10 mm. I plan to use Shou Sugi Ban charred wood siding, which is touted as having increased fire resistance. My concerns are implications of this gap in the siding for fire resistance, durability of the Mento 1000 over time, and moisture penetration. I would appreciate thoughts on this one too.
Thanks all, for any input you’re willing to supply.
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Replies
It seems quite reasonable to expect that low or no overhang will decrease durability, and the gaps will also decrease fire resistance. To pin down exactly how much would require expensive testing which is probably not feasible. But I don't think you have to think of it was just a question of a compromise between durability, fire resistance and aesthetics. You can also think about how far you are willing to go and how much money you are willing to spend to achieve those performance objectives despite the aesthetic choices.
For example, some things to consider might be:
1. Using fiberglass/gypsum sheathing instead of Agepan, for better fire resistance and better rot resistance.
2. Using a hidden gutter to reduce rain water running down the siding.
3. Use an extra layer of siding that provides the fire and rain resistance, with the outer layer of gapped charred wood functioning just as a decorative layer, and find a way to attach it that allows removing and replacing easily when needed.
Another option would be to hang out with building performance nerds long enough that your aesthetic sensibility gets reset, and you cringe when you see a house with no overhang and get happy feelings when you see generous overhangs.
"Another option would be to hang out with building performance nerds long enough that your aesthetic sensibility gets resist, and you cringe when you see a house with no overhang and get happy feelings when you see generous overhangs."
Haha!
How much of a wall does a modest overhang actually protect? I'd guess maybev the top 2 feet?
I went with no overhangs and with an 8.5/12 pitch roof the rain water shoots out feet away from the wall.
I saw a study that showed that even modest rain screen gaps allow a lot of water. I tested it and it does. So I switched to a normal lap siding with 1 inch vertical overlap.
I am on beams though so I don't have to worry about water near the foundation.
Max,
My own house has 30" overhangs, and unless there is a lot of wind-blown rain the walls experience virtually no wetting.
It is pouring here right now and I can look out the window at my sheds which have 2 ft overhangs. Their walls are completely dry.
Malcolm, I can virtually say the same about my house with no overhangs. When it's raining the rain coming off the roof is falling about 5 feet from the house. It experiences very little wetting. I think it's owing to the steepish roof.
There are houses in cape cod that have stood over 200 years with no overhangs and they are still in good shape
Margie,
Both choices diminish the performance of the house, especially in combination, where the vulnerability of an open-cladding is made worse by not being afforded the protection of the roof. Designed carefully and built diligently they can work, but what you are doing is moving to assemblies that rely on that initial diligence, and on them continuing to stay in the state they were built over the life of the house for their viability. My own preference it to choose more forgiving building assemblies that don't rely on near perfection for their performance.
My barn in VT has deep overhangs and the siding gets quite wet. But it's a barn. The advantage of thick walls is that you can set the windows and doors well in from the surface of the wall so each window and door gets a little roof over it essentially. Be aware of warranty issues with the mento - with regards to both UV protection and with regards to siding fasteners penetrating the mento.
I love buildings with no overhangs that are well-designed and well-constructed. It takes diligence to do it right, but it's not difficult if you have good details. (I also used to work at Ecocor and had a hand in developing the Clover, though it's not my design.) Much of my career has involved working on coastal homes where roof overhangs are of little to no value due to constant wind; in less-windy areas, roof overhangs are forgiving of a less-than-perfect building envelope.
Open-joint cladding does concern me because it puts a lot of pressure (figuratively) on the WRB. I know it can be done well but it's riskier than cladding that sheds most water.
Coincidentally, our BS + Beer Show topic for March 18 will be "Aesthetics Vs Performance" or something along those lines, and I expect we will discuss both roof overhangs and open-joint claddings.
I'll be there! BTW, the email reminders I get for these used to include the topic, but don't anymore. I really liked seeing it there rather than having to track it down from the recap of the prior episode on GBA.
Margie, there are two different email reminders--one from Fine Homebuilding, an automated notification from their Zoom account, and another one I send that has the information about each show. You might have unsubscribed from the second one or it might be going to your spam folder. You can sign up again here: https://mailchi.mp/3e8e27ba8332/thebsandbeershow.
The lighter Shou Sugi Ban you see in most pictures is not very durable. The charring lasts about two years. I've tried it for some trim and light char doesn't last.
If you do want to flame treat, you need to burn the heck out of the wood. Without a thick layer of char, you won't get any of the durability benefits of the process. Make sure you are fine with this as it is very dark and a bit of alligator skin texture on the surface.
Instead of open cladding, I would recommend reverse board and batten. This gives you the visual look of open cladding without any of the issue. You can use composite trim painted black or very dark composite deck boards for the battens for a very durable install. This also avoid the UV issues with your WRB.
One of my covid projects was to finally install gutters on my garage and I can tell you it made a world of difference on keeping water off the wood siding. Before the bottom 2' was getting discolored from splash back, with the gutters it looks the same as the rest.
Due to some zoning regulations, my home ended up with a large overhang over my driveway. One unexpected benefit is that it keeps lot of the snow off the driveway, just for that it is worth it.
If you do want to go zero overhang or no gutters, I would suggest metal siding, these can easily handle the extra water and won't have any of the issues that wood will.
Without overhangs, you are really asking for a lot of maintaince:
https://www.greenbuildingadvisor.com/question/parapet-drip
Margie,
I agree with Charlie that an aesthetic reset would do you well. I live high-ish in the mountains in Colorado and wish that I had made my overhangs much greater than 24". Snow loads in your area can be greater than what I see, so the problem of snow dropping off into deep piles next to the foundation could be worse for you. This will be a more notable issue on the north side of your structure if the roof dumps that way. Be very sure to shed snow away from entry points as far as possible. Think about the style of roofs in Switzerland ski chalets and plan accordingly.
Gutters are frequently not used in high snow areas, particularly with standing seam roofs. Even in freezing air temperatures, sun melt on metal roofs is unavoidable and run-off will collect as ice in the gutters. These will collapse or simply run over to make massive ice sculptures. Many a fancy place in our region must lace their gutters and overhangs with heat wire to try and keep ahead of the ice build up. Not a very appealing aesthetic touch.
I am of mixed thoughts on snow brakes. If your roof pitch is above 8 in 12 maybe it would be of value to limit sudden rapid unloading of heavy snow fall. Just the same, new fallen snow can behave like mountain avalanche conditions where the new layer slides over older snow. I have lower pitch metal roofs and I find the slow slide and breaking snow curls method less startling.
Given that you are going with a Larsen type wall build, there will be substantial overhang past your sill plate which means a large area to seal against critters and potential wildfire embers. While not insurmountable issues, it will make the whole assembly demand more detailing than is often obtainable from local workers. Maybe the wall units will arrive all detailed.
The gapped siding is truly a bad idea in fire country. You suggest 5-10mm (for we imperialists, 3/16 to 3/8) which is way above the screening size minimums for fire ember protection. Your rain screen gap would become a perfect collection point for embers. This would defeat any possible value inherent in pre-burned siding. Additionally, the gapping would ensure free air flow through the rain screen gap from top to bottom.
Others have looked into the issue of whether rain screen gaps contribute to flame spread. The apparent consensus is that for gaps under about 1" behind CONTINUOUS siding, flame transport behind siding is very limited if any. By introducing openings every board width you have ensured free airflow over the whole rain gap field. This is inherently a bad idea with the ember build up potential with large gaps. For primary fire protection, plan on 30-50' clear around the home and hardscape for at least 8' out from the walls. Embers will still travel miles on the winds driven or created by fires, so clearing around the house is for local effects. The fine screening and good roof detailing is to reduce the ember build up risks.
You have also mentioned a vented roof, so plan on very fine screening for any vent structures used for that purpose. Also be aware that venting under a metal roof will have little if any effect on how melt water will come off during sunny periods. As I noted above, once any part of the metal roof sees sunshine, it will start melting the snow and water will slide down under the snow until it freezes. Over time, the underside of the snow layer will become like an upside down frosting layer of ice. This may or may not suddenly break free of the roof once the top parts have become exposed to enough sun load. The idea that venting under the metal roof will prevent melting effects is misguided.
The snow curls picture I have attached are not the biggest I have photographed, but they show the effect. It had been as low as 7F the night before, but the east face of the house gets warmed up pretty well.
Margie -
Fire is a serious threat in the western mountains, and with climate trends it's going to be a much greater hazard in the future. As others have noted, you might want to direct more attention to this. Colorado Springs has a very good, up-do-date guide you can download: https://coloradosprings.gov/sites/default/files/2020_ignition_resistant_design_manual_march_2020.pdf
Regardless of the code where you're building, you will likely feel more secure if you build a fire-resistant house, and it may mean that you'll still be able to get fire insurance 5 or 10 years from now. Good luck with your design - there do seem be about a bazillion decisions.
Great resource out of Colorado Springs, thanks. I'm surprised Teton County, WY is so far behind given the prevalence of wildfires here. Its big step last week was prohibiting wood shakes on roofs.
I've read enough to convince me open gap cladding is a no-go. Intellectually I know wood siding is not the right choice, but am definitely struggling with the aesthetics of the alternatives. And more research to be done on overhangs--all the input is great, please keep it coming!
Think about how many buildings have no overhangs . The bottom floor of any two story house is not protected by overhangs yet they survive.
Regarding wood cladding. I went with cedar lap siding. I wish I had done corrugated steel.
It is possible to use Ipe. It is much more flame resistant than other woods and is available from a number of sources pre-milled as shiplap rainscreen. It is not a green choice but it may be a good compromise for you.
Woodguyatl,
I'm not an expert of wildfire prevention, but suspect the choice of wood species, or how it is treated, isn't half as important as choosing an open-cladding.
Of course, but the OP was struggling with the aesthetic of a non-wood siding. She has already decided to not use a gap. I was suggesting that Ipe is very fire resistant and, of course, is wood. Combined with a shiplap installation. Is is very unlikely to be a problem.
Margie, from what I see you have already received some very useful advice. I live just to the North of you in Montana. Four things that ruin homes/building materials are water, UV light, heat and critters. Lets address the last two first as these considerations are more important to us in the West than someone in a coastal environment. For brevity I will not address radient heat but don't forget to address it. Let's talk fire. I have had two wildfires come through my property. It is a natural occurence in the forest that we westerners value viewing out our picture windows. I lost a brand new building with the first fire I experienced and since I was prepared, I experienced no problems the second time. We are clever with our advanced building science but always need to remind ourselves ,,, Mother Nature bats last. If you don't go to your building site and listen to what she is telling you I promise you will be doomed to disappointment later. If you pay attention to what mother nature is telling you and adjust your "asthetics" in practical ways you with get along with whatever she dishes out to you just fine and your neighbors will comment on how "lucky " you were after the fire races through or any other natural event occurs. Lots of little details matter for us builder's in the West. Please listen to the advise you received thus far regarding large gaps between siding. Cool look but very bad idea in your area! Imagine 80 MPH winds blasting your house with burning embers carried in the wind! Where and how your house is positioned on your land makes a big difference not only in asthetics but in durability and safety of your structure also. EVERY decision you make on the position, design of your home, and even landscaping will require you to ask yourself does it help my house resist the four factors I listed above? You need to consider fire resistant materials ALWAYS for your exterior of your structure in the dry West unless you enjoy gambling. One often finds it is prudent to compromise things like Shou Sugi Ban cladding for fiber cement or metal siding if they live in an area where fire is likely. You may want Rockwool instead of other choices for your exterior insulation. You may want to have a non combustible deck surface rather than redwood.
This list goes on but you understand it is all a compromise and it is best to identify what is most important by understanding your building site and what barriers you need from the environment outside your house before you even break ground. You definitely need advise from someone with experience in YOUR specific area. One of my earlier houses was positioned well for prevailing winds, but I did not do my due diligence in researching my site and take into account the direction storms came from.. I had the front door positioned entirely the wrong direction for these storms and I had a wimpy inadequate overhang. I would almost get trapped inside this house because the snow would pile so deep against the front door. I was a slave to the snow shovel! Properly positioned, with a proper eave I would not have had to deal with any snow on the entire front porch and wouldn't be fighting mother nature each morning after a snowfall. Next, let's talk critters! When describing the perfect wall, the excellent people of Building Science Corporation did not take into account one of the most important control portions of a wall assembly for our Rocky Mountain West. Why would they describe a critter control layer? They are slightly prejudiced by living the majority of their lives in the more urban East. Have you ever heard of the insect called the Western Conifer Seed bug? It lives most of its life happily obtaining norishment from Evergreen trees (but will suck juices from deciduous trees in a pinch) and every autumn will look for places like the house you have just described to spend the winter. They will come out of your open cladding and sun themselves by the hundreds and are pretty happy there. It doesn't make the Shou Sugi Ban look so good when they do. They are a wonderful test for the continuity of your air control layer however, because they love to spend the winter with you inside of your home. Imagine an infestation of a cross between a Box Elder bug and a Stink Bug at your dream home! I rather doubt you want your house's control layer to be the pest control sevrvce placing toxic chemicals on you otherwise "perfect" wall assembly. If you have not heard of this critter, just wait a while. My understanding is in spite of its name, it is an invasive species from Asia and is moving from West to East in North America at an alarming rate. Perhaps the Experts at Building Science Corporation (whom I do respect a great deal BTW) will add the critter control layer to their perfect wall assembly when this pest reaches the East. I have spent a great deal of time developing my own ways of dealing with bugs, mice, pack rats, raccoons and other critters we just as soon view as wildlife outside our homes in rural areas. Let's just say in the Rocky Mountain West, when you plan your home, you are ahead of the game if you design your home from the onset to NOT encourage vermin. You will get your fair share of them anyway. Your may want to use various types of screens, Boric acid in the wall assembly and closed cladding in your construct for these reasons. The higher elevation we place our homes in the mountains the more we realize how our homes and our own skin is affected by ultraviolet light. A closed cladding system with ample rain screen will protect your weather control barrier. UV protection is of even more importance for your location than for an urban dweller or even a homeowner in the South. This is because the thinner atmosphere above you filters less UV radiation and snow below reflects more of it. People moving to the beautiful mountains are offer surprised when they get sunburned on the underside of their nose or ear lobes! Keep UV reflection in mind even in your choice of soffet material. Enough said. Let's talk water now. Luckily we have a dry cold climate and we can get away with being a bit sloppy in our design with regard to bulk water as it applies to rain. This is not so when we consider snow. I hope the previous advice you got regarding going to several ski resorts in your area and really looking at what works and more importantly what doesn't work is taken to heart. I predict you soon will appreciate the less urban look one normally sees in rural settings even if you chose not to build that way. Curtain walls are popular in cities for reasons I won't get into but I don't think one can make much of an argument for them in the mountains. There would be too many compromises to list here. Only you know what makes sense to you as you decide what your your preference is for fashion versus function. It WILL change in different environments. One will not be happy backpacking while wearing high heels in the mountains but can perhaps find a reason to wear them in a different setting. I hope you don't take my use of that example as sexist since you are female, but you have to admit it makes a point clear to any gender. Try to remember that comfort in a mountain home IS a fashion statement. That is why many savvy people think covered porches and decks are sexy. Having said that, keep snow accumulation and movement of it secondary to wind or gravity of paramount importance when you are considering control of water in your region. Did I just hint yet again about the simple elegance of a covered outside space? Maybe that is why I am designing and building a louvered wind resistant, UV resistant, fire/heat resiliant, thermally reflective, precipitation managing, critter resistant aluminum covering over an free standing fireproof deck that has no thermal bridging to my house! :-)
Thanks for putting up with my musings if you indeed read this far. One last piece of advice that is probably worth as much as you paid for it (nothing.) If you are unwilling to hire experts in your area to help you with your design or do some serious deep diving into building science, at least go meet people that have already built homes in the area you intend to live and find out what worked for them and what things they wish they had done different.
Your success may not then be be just because of luck. A sobering fact is that we don't know what we don't know. Due diligence of educating ourselves is mandatory or we are doomed to making unintentional errors. There is nothing more sad than utilizing a lot of money and effort thinking we are doing the right thing only to find out we were mistaken! Finally, I like your choice of roofing material you have chosen if it matches the proper slope and construct of what's under it. It is a good start to your journey. I sincerely wish you the best of success on the rest of your house.
Andy
Andy,
Excellent, thoughtful advice.
Andy, we're definitely going to want to see a picture of your deck!
Thanks, all, for your thoughtful replies, esp. to Andy and Roger for all the time you spent on yours. I have largely been convinced to go with corrugated metal siding for the bulk of my siding. Aesthetically (I know, "here she goes again") I really like the look of Corten. I saw some negative feedback on the internet and would welcome any input you all have to offer.
Margie,
The knock on Cor-ten steel is it can pit prematurely. If installed on a rain-screen I don't see why that should pose much of a problem.
The devil is in the details. It is usually installed on commercial buildings, with hidden fasteners or clips. I don't know how feasible that is 0n a small residential project, or what the alternatives would be. Gasketted screws would work, but you may not want that look. You will also have to figure out how to integrate it with the rest 0f the trim and flashing on the exterior.
This is a house close to where I live with no overhangs and coeten steel. I saw it a few months ago and it still looked great.
https://www.dwell.com/home/casa-linder-d23f38cc
Im in dfw so vastly different climate but I love that I never needs repainting or changing. It wears in instead of wearing out.
Oh, yeah!!!
I haven't seen this done on buildings, but for other purposes, a linseed or tung oil coating can stabilize rust and stop the progression before there is pitting. It soaks into the porous surface rather than providing a coating over it that can peel off. You get the patina you want and then lock it in by oiling it. Traditionally, this didn't hold up very well outdoors without pigment in it, the inexpensive and effective option being carbon black (hence Henry Ford's choice of paint color), but some modern versions have transparent UV protection.
I have worked around Corten. My experience is with planters and retaining walls. I’ve noticed that the color transfer to clothes when I brush against it.
Margie,
Here is a link to a Colorado supplier of metal roofing and siding. They show gutters and downspouts, which I have noted are somewhat problematic in high mountain environments. The pictures they have are not the greatest, as the rusting process is still rather mottled in the few pictures they have. Time is the great blender.
https://reclametals.com/metal-roofing-siding/
I have a rolled snap lock standing seam metal roof that is mellowing into the rusted look you are seeking. I opted to let the process occur on its own schedule, though the rusting can be accelerated with a vinegar or similar wash. Each contractor seems to have their own formula. The rolling oils present on formed sheets or roof panels can delay uniform rust from developing for five years if my roof is any indication. I figure that is five more years of lifespan even if the roof is expected to make 50+ years. A wash that speeds up the look likely doesn't reduce the lifespan all that much if any.
A few things to note about metal siding/roofing and the rusty metal look. The siding and roofing will bleed rust, so plan for color friendly stone below the drip line of walls and roofs. The gray washed stone fill placed in my ground "gutters" developed a reddish line where the runoff fell. I have since extended my fire break landscaping out 25-35' from house walls by blanketing the soil with weed block and a new layer of "desert rose" washed stone. It is somewhat rust colored anyway, so I suspect the drip line will take longer to reveal itself.
Try not to place concrete walk ways or driveway aprons where they will be subject to run off from walls or roof. A local restaurant has patio space and walkways that are stained pretty darkly from the rust coming off the metal siding they used. If you can offset sidewalks a foot or more from the wall or any drip lines you will be able to keep the staining at bay.
Both siding and roofing will expand and contract from sun warming. Roofs typically receive more sun load, so anticipate hearing the panels ease themselves into the expanded state each morning. The soft popping noises are easily ignored. Less easily ignored is the drumming of runoff from the second floor roof onto the kitchen roof. I consider this my major design failure. I could do a gutter, but the risk of losing it to ice or creating a dangerously large ice column from overflow keeps me gutter free. Basic rule, don't have runoff from a higher level fall onto a roof you sit under.
The expansion issue does need to be accommodated for long term success. My roof panels are snap lock standing seam which incorporates clip anchors screwed to the roof deck. The panels are rolled with folds on the standing seam part such that the clips and adjacent panels lock together against wind lift, but still are free to slide relative to each other. I was advised against the full rolled lock seam type of roof panels due to the expansion differential between sunny and shaded panels areas. This may have been part sales pitch. I can't say that I have seen a full rolled seam roof here, though they must exist. The lock seam style may be more prone to oil canning, which is typically associated with any metal panel that is constrained too rigidly to relieve expansion evenly.
Face screwed roof panels use gasketed screws, as do siding panels. My friends house had a roof section redone to solve a chimney problem and the decking under it looked just fine after 25 years. I will have to ask if he had a high point anchor or a low point anchor install. There are different schools of thought on where screws go and how long the screws should be. Most everyone here says that over time the screws will get loose due to the panels expanding and contracting and need tightening. Apparently, the panel movement pushes the screws side to side until the hole is slightly wobbled out. Of much greater importance is having the screws set so the gasket is not squeezed out flat. The proper setting is snug, not smashed down.
If you have the opportunity to speak with locals that have metal buildings or face screwed siding, you might garner some practical insights for local conditions.
Fortunately, I don't have to face the dreaded Western Conifer Seed bug, which sound as bad as the Asian Ladybugs I left behind in the midwest. I have had to deal with angry wasps that have adopted every gap in my soffiting as perfect front doors to new homes. Try to have your builder detail out gaps wherever possible. It took me several days of very scary vacuuming to defeat one nest. I don't think they would be motivated to stay in the rain gap behind the panels due to the extreme heat from sunshine. Mice and other munching mammals will try to take advantage of the gap though, so be sure to specify filler strips or capping profiles, especially along the bottom edges. A dime size hole or gap is plenty for a mouse to squeeze through.
Try to get the thickest gauge material practical for roof or walls. Lower numbers are thicker. I agree that the Cor-ten material can be quite beautiful once patina is established. I think it is even possible to order different alloys under the Cor-ten brand which provides different shades of brown. I also think that I have heard it doesn't roll as easily as the stock Recla typically uses. The biggest drawback may be budgetary. You might have to purchase entire coils of stock and pay set up charges for the run. You would also need to have trim profiles bent or rolled to maintain uniform color. Not to say it can't be done, just that it might prove a budget buster.
Last thing to add, a picture of the north face of my house where the snow slides off a relatively short roof. We have only had about 36" of snow all winter and the pile you are seeing is from a 14' roof run. It is about 40" high at the peak and the part against my house is up above the skirting about 10". The pile is melting now, but will not be totally gone until end of April, as it is on the north side of the house. If you are in a zone that gets 10-15 feet of snowfall, you can see why shedding the snow out from your walls is to your advantage and better for the walls too.
Hope we haven't collectively rained on your parade too harshly. Just be glad we have made all the mistakes for you.
I share some of your aesthetic sensibilities: no overhangs, Shou Sugi Ban, metal roof, etc...Luckily, on Martha's Vineyard we don't have to deal with forest fires, huge snow storms, and evil critters....I attached a couple of pictures of our recent addition. The original section was built in 1982 as a passive solar home with sunspaces, triple glazing on non-south windows, extreme insulation for the time....and has performed well. The addition was designed to be different aesthetically..... as a more modern appendage. The photos show how even an 8" snowfall can dump a lot of snow off of a metal roof. We didn't install gutters, but if we had, we would have used a thin rectangular gutter. Siding is by Nakamoto Forestry and has held up extremely well so far....one year. the concrete walk-out basement is an aesthetic choice, but would offer some fire resistance.
Hugh, gorgeous house!
Do you have any close-ups or details on the window awnings?
Do you have to deal with overheating in winter from the south windows? Thanks!
It gets cozy warm in winter, but we tend to keep heat way down at night so AOK.. Canopy rods and clevises were made by Cleveland City Forge...Eyehooks by e-rigging.
Fantastic. Thanks so much for sharing.
Lovely!
And very well detailed.