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open joint cladding options in North America

vwbrady | Posted in Green Products and Materials on

There aren’t many options for nice open joint cladding if you want to avoid an exotic hardwood that requires maintenance. The composite ones, like what you’d use on a deck, are also expensive just look and feel like decking you attached to the side of your house. Not a very natural look/feel.

What would be ideal is a fiber cement product that was intended for this use. It exists but would have to be imported and is not very value oriented. 

My idea is to purchase 4’x10′ sheets of Hardie Panels, rip my cladding out of those, then attach them over a rainscreen batten system with exposed fasteners. My hesitation: they’re only 5/16″ thick and typical open-joint cladding is about 3/4″-1″ thick. Im not sure if this matters, except for water traveling vertically would have less of a horizontal distance to get behind the cladding. But who cares if it can get in if it can dry out? 

Fiber Cement has a poor GWP rating but is one of the most durable materials out there. It can even come pre-colored. I feel like it’s a good idea. Any thoughts from the GBA community?

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Replies

  1. Expert Member
    MALCOLM TAYLOR | | #1

    vwbradly,

    Unfortunately, Hardi panels are only viable at that thickness because of the size of the sheets. A toddler leaning against a thin strip would push through it.

    1. vwbrady | | #3

      Excellent point, they'd be pretty weak.

  2. andyfrog | | #2

    Thermally modified softwoods (the softwoods are more durable than hardwoods)?

  3. D_Hallowell | | #4

    Any soft wood boards treated with pine tar might be an option. There would be labor involved to coat the boards, but no more than ripping fiber cement sheets. You can tint pine tar with pigments, but color would be limited to somewhat darker shades.

  4. jollygreenshortguy | | #5

    How does simple Western Red Cedar not fit the bill? That would be my first choice. It can be had in rectangular sections and be installed over a rainscreen with a black WRB. It's an elegant, modern option. And it actually sequesters carbon into the building. I'd opt for an FSC certified product.
    If maintenance is the driving factor then I'd get a factory painted product.
    https://www.buffalo-lumber.com/painted-siding/

    1. gusfhb | | #7

      That would be my choice. I know personally of several houses that have had almost unmaintainted VG cedar since before Hardy was making siding

    2. vwbrady | | #9

      I would certainly be concerned about fading or accelerated wear on my south face, but I'm totally up for painting as this would protect and seriously prolong the life. Only concern there is the cladding would have to be painted before it was installed, which drives a TON of extra effort.

  5. Expert Member
    Akos | | #6

    I have done exactly what you propose with the 5/16 panels. It is a lot of work an unforgiving, not something I would recommend.

    There is a lot of prep to get it right as there is no way to adjust any gaps/overlaps. You need to have a complete layout for a wall before you start and all panels have to be cut very precisely to line up with things like windows and doors. You need a lot more strapping as all edges need to be supported and if you want the shadow line you can't have strapping behind vertical lines. The panels need to be primed and painted on all 6 sides with extra care on the edges as they will be exposed.

    I recently saw the install coming up to about a decade old now and it is looking the same as original, holding up well so far.

    I've also done something like this using plain 1x3 and 1x4 cedar boards for my shed at home. The cedar is greying a bit now but holding up pretty well.

    Overall, it is not something I would recommend for a house unless you have the skill an attention to detail to DIY properly. If you are paying for the install I would look at one of the shadow line trim kits instead which make the install much simpler. Also once you have the proper trim kits, it is no longer open siding so lot of the water issues are simplified.

    1. vwbrady | | #10

      Thanks, Akos. I appreciate you sharing your frustrating experience. I would not be DIYing this install, so I certainly need something forgiving as the installers will have no experience this this assembly.

  6. vwbrady | | #8

    OK, you all have been super helpful!

    Here is a short list of my best options:
    1. Poly-Ash (Boral) trim used as cladding - might be a bit expensive
    2. Thermally modified wood - Hemlock looks to be popular
    3. Painted Cedar - I considered cedar, but not painted! idk why

  7. vwbrady | | #11

    in case this is useful info for someone in the future, I got a quote from Dunn Lumber on the best option.
    Boral Tru-Exterior Poly-Ash PRIMED 1x4 trim @ $2.46/lf, which is about $8/sqft and requires prepainting

    Then I look at Builders Warehouse and see the 3/4" x 5.5" x 12' arctic white hardie trim for ≈$20 ea, so about $3.50/sqft. This looks like the way to go. Just use the trim as cladding. Nothing wrong with that right?

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