Necessary layers for a wood-framed insulated metal building
I have recently framed up my new wood shop. Initially, I was going to do cedar siding and metal roof, but now have decided to wrap the whole building in metal (black metal at that) for ease of install and durability…and black metal just looks darn good. The building is now covered in tyvek on sides (on 1/2″ osb) and underlayment on the roof (on 5/8″ plywood). Should I take down the tyvek (which was intended to go with wood siding) and use some other material before i put on the metal siding? Should i install horizontal batten strips to help the building “breath”? Or screw metal straight to the 1/2″ osb? I plan on eventually insulating the interior with batt insulation. I am concerned about the metal putting off too much heat on the interior (i live in alabama). Thoughts? There is a soffit vent and a ridge vent if that helps any. I will be spending a lot of time in my wood shop…so i want it to be comfortable…Any thoughts or advice is greatly appreciated!
GBA Detail Library
A collection of one thousand construction details organized by climate and house part
Replies
Zane,
Leave the Tyvek where it is.
Are the metal panels corrugated or relatively flat? If they are corrugated, I can't think of any reason why they can't be screwed to the OSB through the Tyvek.
If the panels have wide flat sections, you might want to install the cladding on horizontal furring strips, so allow some air movement behind the panels. But that is optional.
Martin,
thank you for the quick response. Yes, the panels are all corrugated. That's refreshing to hear I may not need to add the horizontal strips. Do you think my shop will stay super hot on the interior because of the metal siding?
Zane,
The material you are thinking of -- something that prevents heat flow from the exterior to the interior -- is called insulation. The more insulation you install, the more you will slow down that heat flow.
Zane, Although they have a built-in airspace, corrugated sheet metal panels have such a low permeance that they inhibit the wall drying to the outside. You can aid this drying by substituting a perforated base flashing rather than the standard drip which is usually used.