Greetings

We are under contract for a Morton Buildings barn outside Rangeley, ME (northern halve of climate zone 6B but also of note 100’ from western shore of lake Cupsuptic – prevailing winds are from the north west and 1,400 foot elevation) to be built late summer/early fall.  Barn is 42 wide x 78 long x 18 high (eave height) with 6:12 truss roof ridge running north – south due to geography of the lot.  It will sit on an insulated haunched slab foundation (2” rigid foam).  The building includes fiberglass blanket wall insulation between the poles (3 laminated 2x8s, 6 feet on center) at R19 and blown in fiberglass in the ceiling at R49.  Inner and outer skins are sheet steel panels.  There are (2) 10’ wide x 14’ high (1 on North and 1 on south gable ends) and (1) 16’ wide x 10’ high (north end)  insulated garage doors, 2 entry doors, 2 windows on south gable, 4 on west eave side, and 3 on east eave side.  Interior to the building I plan on a workshop area approx 22’ x 40’ +/-  x 10’ high with loft space above and the remainder as garage storage for camper, boat, tractor etc.  I’d like to keep the building above freezing say 50 degrees and perhaps the workshop warmer say 60 or 65 max.

After reading the Pretty Good House book – I’ve got some concerns & questions.  

1 – The envelope seems to be “low tech” compared to today’s state of the art insulation and air sealing.  That said, I’m not sure improving it is worth it given all the huge doors whose perimeters are likely large leak paths?  The workshop certainly could be extra insulated i.e. a building within a building.  If I want to deviate from the “standard” package that Morton offers, it would likely mean reducing their scope to just the building shell including metal roof and siding and then subcontract the insulation and air sealing details. 

2 – Can anyone recommend a firm that could consult on energy modeling?  This would help me trade best options for thermal performance.  One thought is to insulate but not continuously heat the garage space, and then use a high capacity radiant shop heater on the occasion I might want to work in the winter?  This is truly an occasionally occupied structure.  Or maybe I should only heat the shop space?  I’d also like some expertise on calculating the heating loads for system sizing – the contractor subs this out to his distributor.  As the saying goes – all models are wrong, some are useful.  

3 – I’m interested in exploring a cold climate air to water heat pump to heat the slab – the local heating contractor has some typical concerns and is recommending a propane backup for the occasional cold snap.  (It did approach -30F for a couple nights this past winter).  We will have propane on site for a backup generator  as the electrical grid isn’t super reliable given the weather and proximity of the forests to the power lines.   Though I think I’d prefer resistance heat.  Looking for recommendations couple of brands of heat pumps to look into.

Given the high cost of new england electricity (about $0.25 per kWH delivered in ME) I’m Considering a solar array on the roof and/or perhaps a remote location (shading is a concern and the lake front location means severe restrictions on tree trimming)

Thanks!
Steve