Locating flue hole without removing wall paneling
I am trying to install a wood stove in a room that has paneling on the walls. The chimney flue has been covered by the paneling. I’d rather not remove the paneling because it was glued to the wall when installed. I have tried several ways to do this but was not successful. I dropped a measuring tape down the chimney, took a measurement but was way too low for the flue when I laid the measurement out. Check the room next to this room and found the chimney and a sealed flue on the opposite side of the chimney. Thought about knocking out the plaster or concrete seal, still an option though. Tried a stud finder but was confused by the signals. Is there an easier way to do this without destroying the paneling? The pipe I am using from the stove is a SS, 6″ diameter and a right angle section to make the turn from inside the chimney. any suggestions? thanks
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Replies
Louie,
In order to safely install the stovepipe from a wood stove into a chimney thimble, you need to do more than just locate the thimble (which I assume has been safely capped with masonry materials or a stainless-steel plug). In most cases, you need to remove the finish materials from at least one side of the chimney and expose the masonry chimney.
The stovepipe from your wood stove should not come anywhere close to your wall paneling. So remove the wall paneling.
Once the chimney is exposed, you can determine how easy it will be to open up the old thimble.
Needless to say, a wood stove should only be connected to a lined chimney (one with a tile lining or a stainless-steel lining) in good condition. The usual first step (before installing a wood stove) is to have your chimney inspected by an expert. If you haven't done that yet, I advise you to do so.
The liner also has to be appropriately sized for the wood stove to ensure proper draft. Most masonry chimneys are WAY oversized for all but the largest woodstoves, and would require the installation of the correct diameter liner, insulating between the liner and the masonry flue's liner with blown rock wool.
In almost all cases the size of the flue connection on the woodstove is the ideal size for the flue liner. If the cross sectional area of the masonry flue is more than 1.5x that, you are more likely to run into insufficient draft, backdrafting, flue gases condensing on the masonry and dripping/seeping to other places (with an associated fire hazard too, since there will be combustible fractions in the condensate.).
Dana you are right and i agree with you. But in real life, I had place via another human and the flue was 18" square for a standard woodstove. And no problems what so ever. I checked it more than once too.
Funny thing about rules... now if you hit me with a 12 pound sledge I say it will always hurt. That is a rule that never will waiver.
I don't dispute the answers regarding other issues, but as far as simply locating it, there are electronic locator systems used for tracing sewer pipes and the like which could probably be used...not sure it's worth the expense of hiring someone to do that.
Thermal imaging scanner will find your hole. ;)
There's one offered by FLIR see here;
http://www.flir.com/flirone/