LED Disk Light & Blown Insulation Barrier
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Looking at lighting, and the thin disk LED’s look to be a great alternative to can lights. They are available in Insulation Contact, don’t displace insulation, can be suitable for Wet Locations, don’t use much energy, and have color changing functionality that enables setting the lights to warm or cool lighting hues. The ONLY drawback I can see is that they leave a big hole in the ceiling, and if/when they need to be adjusted or changed, pulling them out will allow a big chunk of our blown in attic insulation to tumble to the ground and make a huge mess. My initial thought is just to put some leftover housewrap (Obdyke FlatWrap) over the holes before the insulation goes in. Then…once we’re ready to install the lights, just gently push up the house wrap with the light and we’re good to go. The wrap is Fire Rated “A”, and the disks are IC rated. Are there any drawbacks to this plan? Moisture trapping? Still too much heat for the wrap? Has anyone considered or used this approach before?
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Please post a link to the one you are considering.
Generally there are two types one designed for OLD work and made to be installed in place where an old fixture was removed or in a place in an old building where no fixture was ever there and fixtures designed for NEW work the often fit neatly in or on standard round electrical boxes.
This one is made for new work.
https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/can-light-retrofit/7-led-downlight-flush-mount-ceiling-light-retrofit-led-recessed-lighting-kit-100-watt-equivalent-dimmable-1000-lumens/4474/9874/?utm_campaign=Child+-+Organic+Shopping&utm_source=Industrial+%26+Commercial+LED+Lighting+%3E+Retrofit+LED+Downlights&utm_medium=SMDJ-NW15W&gclid=CjwKCAjwlYCHBhAQEiwA4K21m78u-it85vo7kLhqrqFykOBEvnlAOWt2nDIznodKb_NyzsY9WxoH9hoCqcYQAvD_BwE
This one is more for old work.
https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/can-light-retrofit/4-ultra-thin-led-recessed-downlight-selectable-cct-2700k3000k3500k4000k5000k-50-watt-equivalent-585-lumens/6573/14586/
Walta
Even for old work I think I'd prefer the new work one with an old work electrical box. Allows you to seal the box tight before putting in the light.
Nate,
Like DC I prefer the fixtures that use a standard electrical box, but if you are going with the fixtures that have integral boxes your plan sounds like a good one. I can't see any drawbacks.
Looking at the flush mount disks, like this:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Commercial-Electric-Ultra-Slim-6-in-Color-Selectable-New-Construction-and-Remodel-Canless-Recessed-Integrated-LED-Kit-4-Pack-91478/310114064
The lights that use the standard boxes bump out from the ceiling, where these sit flush. Aesthetically they seem to be great and the mounting is very flexible as they are thinner than the drywall, but the hole that they need to sit in with nothing above seems to be the biggest drawback.
I would say this product was designed more for use in replacing old work.
I did not see a UL approval on the spec sheet
In my photo the red arrows point to what looks like common zip cord that most codes would not allow to be install inside a finished wall. Note most inspectors would also likely fail any un armored conductor where the blue arrow is as the wire could easily be damaged so close to the finished surface when tapped behind the 2 by.
I would not expect the spring mounts will provide an air tight seal on day one even less likely to be air tight years from now.
Something like this is UL listed will fit on a standard box that you can caulk in place for a tight seal.
And has a similar look
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Halo-BLD-6-in-White-Integrated-LED-Recessed-Ceiling-Mount-Light-Trim-3000K-Soft-White-BLD606930WHR/305237983
Walta
Deleted
Walta,
- These LED sets are by far the most common types used in new construction.
- I'm pretty sure all the fixtures sold by HD have the appropriate approvals.
- Are you sure the "zip cord" isn't just 14/2 Romex?
- I've found no appreciable air leakage using similar fixtures.
That said, I do prefer those that can fit in a standard box.
So the blue arrow is the way that every house in my home state of Massachusetts is wired. Massachusetts requires that ceilings be "strapped" (as they say there) with 1x3 or 1x4 and the wiring is woven between the studs and the strapping. Not NEC-compliant but the way they roll.
Here is a Halo example with UL called out.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Halo-HLB-6-in-Color-Selectable-New-Construction-or-Remodel-Canless-Recessed-Integrated-LED-Kit-4-Pack-HLB6099FS1EMWR-4PK/311759726?MERCH=REC-_-pip_alternatives-_-310114064-_-311759726-_-N&#overlay
It does say that the light is IC rated for air permeable insulation, so maybe I'd be better off with insulation netting or something similar?