Kumo Cloud Controllers don’t support dual band 2.4/5 ghz or 5 ghz routers? Really?!
tjolson
| Posted in General Questions on
Hi All,
As anyone with a dual band router successfully used the Kumo Cloud system for their mini splits? I am surprised to see in Mitsubushi’s literature that this system doesn’t support modern routers.
I have the question sent to the OEM but wandered if anyone had experimented and seen otherwise.
-Todd
This is the unit in question:PAC-USWHS002-WF-2
I haven’t found an install manual for the WF-2 online but the WF-1 is on the Mistu site and clearly states no dual band or 5 ghz.
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Replies
You can set your WAP* to 2.4GHz (802.11b/g) for any devices that don't support 5Ghz (802.11a/n).
Assuming your WAP is 802.11 compliant with all latest specs and your manufacturer allows you to configure, this shouldn't be a problem. Most modern "Wifi routers" come pre-configured to only allow 5Ghz devices, so double check the configuration. Just because the router is "dual band" does not mean it comes pre-configured to accept 2.4Ghz-only devices.
Besides, 2.4Ghz performs better over long distances and through building materials. Most telemetry devices don't need 5Ghz bandwidth. Almost all my home devices run on 2.4Ghz ... avoids needing multiple WAPs, bridges, expensive gear (with 5 attenas on them that retail for hundreds of $$$, LOL!) that most "technologists" sell you when consumers ask to expand their home Wifi coverage area.
* if you're just talking about wireless connectivity, the router functionality is irrelevant.
Hi Todd, as stated above they run on the 2.4ghz frequency. Ive been running two of them for two years without issue on my Asus router. Something else is going on that isnt letting them to your network.
Most of the little WiFi modules the industrial controller guys use only support the 2.4GHz band. This is a common issue. There isn’t really much issue running low-bandwidth review there though — the biggest issue with 2.4GHz is all the congestion.
If you want solid whole-home WiFi coverage, get one of the little ubiquiti access points (they look like flying saucers), and mount it on the ceiling of your top floor near the center of your home. Use a microtik “routerboard” as your router/firewall along with a separate cable modem, if your on cable (which also avoids modem rental fees from your cable co). This will give you MUCH better performance than ANY integrated product. Total cost for the access point and router is under $200. You do need to do a little more configuration with this setup, but not much and it’s not difficult. The routerboard comes almost completely preconfigured for a typical setup like this.
The best part about the ubiquiti access points is they are powered through the Ethernet cable, so you can mount them anywhere easily. Just run some cat5.
Another tip: don’t waste money on cat6 or anything “more advanced”. There are NO specs that require cat6 cabling. Gigabit Ethernet will run fine on regular cat5 (no “e”), and the next step up — 10Gb Ethernet — needs cat6A. Cat5E is most available and cheaper, and will run everything just fine.
Bill
CAT6 supports 10Gb up to 55 metres. Cat6A extends that up to 100 meters.
There are no runs in my house over 20 metres, so we went with cat6 for less than half the price.
Don’t expect that to actually work. Commercially, when customers want to actually run 10G, I push them towards fiber. We just did a full cat6A install for a CAD lab a few months ago, with mostly short runs, and lots of issues. 10G just doesn't have the noise tolerance to work reliably on copper runs.
There are “multimedia” integrated cables out there that include fiber, but it’s usually the wrong kind of fiber. You want OM3 multimode, or better yet, singlemode SME fiber. The fiber itself all costs about the same, anyone trying to charge a premium is just gouging. Note that it’s often cheaper to run separate cables instead of using the integrated stuff, even after allowing for labor.
Bill
Commercial has a lot more noise though. My 10Gb has been working great in my house.
It's funny to see this sort of discussion on GBA.
10 gigabit Ethernet on twisted pair has historically been power inefficient and error prone. Just as the PHYs have started to get a bit better, it's time to move to 25 Gbps. At this point, 25 Gbps is certainly relegated to TwinAx, fiber, and AOC.
I had an issue like this with a wise orchard wifi valve (I used it for a green roof irrigation system). It only could connect with 2.4g and the Google mesh system in place doesn't have an option to broadcast just the one frequency.
I ended up buying a $20 wifi repeater that plugs into an outlet, and only broadcasts in 2.4g that worked for me.
https://www.amazon.ca/TP-Link-TL-WA850RE-Universal-One-button-Indicator/dp/B00E98O7GC
Of the 11 WiFi channels in the 2.4GHz band, only three of them don’t overlap. Add in probably all of your neighbors these days and you get a lot of interference. Add in some “range extenders” and you have even more issues. The 5GHz band has many more available channels, fewer people using it (at least so far), and slightly less ability to penetrate things is a benefit here since you’re less likely to have your neighbors signal interfering with yours (this allows better “spectral reuse” as we call it in the telecom world).
Note that those WiFi repeater / range extender things usually effectively halve your bandwidth because they are retransmitting in the same spectrum, so you essentially send every data packet twice. I’d avoid their use if at all possible. Most homes can be easily covered with a single wireless access point if it’s properly located.
Bill
I have a dual band linksys router and I was able to set up my PAC-USWHS002-WF-1 last night (also added an external thermostat at the same time). I was able to use my 2.4 ghz band and everything is good so far.
I bought mine on ebay and I suspect it was installed previously, so I had to hit the reset button to get the four quick flashes needed for connecting to Bluetooth. After that It was smooth sailing.