Is “sleeper” the correct term for a 2x?
Is “sleeper” the correct term for a 2x that is screwed vertically to the top of a existing roof truss, and extends past the outside wall when adding eave overhang to a home without any?
Thanks!
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mikeolder,
You are choosing between four quite similar terms: Sleeper, furring, strapping and purlins - and there are overlaps between them, and some regional differences in how they are used.
To me sleepers are the elements fastened to the surface of a floor or roof to provide a flat or tapered attachment point for the finished surface.
I'd be more inclined to call what you describe purlins, but if you describe their size and location I'm not sure it matters much what term you use.
This blog avoids the problem altogether: https://www.greenbuildingadvisor.com/article/monopoly-roof-framing
I usually think of Perlins as sitting perpendicular to the main framing, so in this case parallel to the exterior wall. I would add "batten" in general to this list of terms, but yes, they're all similar.
Searching for diagrams of such, you'll see them called out as different things.
Deleted
I would call it an outrigger
Sounds good, thanks..
Thanks Mr. Taylor..
Not sure where "sleeper" came from, but imo a purlin is a member that runs horizontally.. But lets call them "purlins" and maybe I can pick your brain about installing them.
Im facing a few accuracy hurdles with my roof overhang project I can't work my mind around, but the monopoly roof framing link you posted is exactly what Im attempting to do alone on 3:12.
My "post frame" trusses don't have tails, and don't allow enough space to sister tails to the sides, so I need to sister on from the top over the sheathing, or monopoly style.. But how do I locate the seams of the existing sheathing to know where to screw the purlins after the deck is covered with black underlayment?
The existing sheathing seam locations are also needed to install the new sheathing over the new purlins straight, so all the seams fall on purlins and are tight and square. My eave is 80 feet long, so I cannot pull a string that far in the wind and we all know how important the first row being straight is.
Thanks
Use a magnet, prefer a magnet stud finder
mikeolder,
It is difficult. I find much the same complications with exterior foam on walls. It's quite annoying and time consuming.
Mark the seams at the peak and eaves with a roofing nail or marker as you install the underlayment. You can snap a line between those points when running the next layer of sheathing. For distances where a string line isn't feasible, use a laser.