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I Used the Wrong Nails

Jaahk | Posted in Building Code Questions on

I am framing a first floor deck and I used the wrong nails. I shot 2″ x 0.99 ring nails instead of 2 1/2″ common. The floor is 11 7/8″ I-Joist with 3/4″ Pinnacle sub-floor. I applied plenty of construction adhesive and only attached the sub-floor only one sheet ahead of the adhesive application. My nailing pattern is about 4″ to 6″ along the perimeter and 6″ to 8″ in the field. Should I go over it with the correct nails?

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Replies

  1. davidmeiland | | #1

    You're talking about the subfloor nails? I bet you're better off with the ring-shanks than you would have been with commons. If you want to add anything, use #8 x 2" all purpose screws with unthreaded shank under the head.

  2. Expert Member
    MALCOLM TAYLOR | | #2

    You are much better off having done what you did. It is a good prescription for a squeak-proof floor.

  3. Jaahk | | #3

    Thanks for the support. I've used ring nails on every sub-floor I've installed but I was reading the code and it calls for 2 1/2" commons.

  4. Expert Member
    MALCOLM TAYLOR | | #4

    Considering the depth of the top flange of the I joist, I don't see the point of using 2 1/2" nails anyway.

  5. user-723121 | | #5

    1 5/8" plated screws and construction adhesive will result in a quiet floor. Longer screws have a tendency to split the flange on I joists.

  6. KSJeffery | | #6

    Agree with others here. You have better than an inch penetration with ringshank, plus glue. You have built yourself a nice, solid subfloor and no inspector with a modicum of common sense is going to fail you for not building "to code".

  7. wjrobinson | | #7

    I have used these forever and also use 2 1/2" screws for my auto feed gun plus glue, though I have found the glue not to stick on occasion.

    2-3/8 in. x .113 ring shank nails collated.

    edit: my use has been with standard 2x stock not I joists. I joists should come with a complete plan, as that is how my lumber yard sells that floor system.

    edit 2: I build with 3/4" subfloor. Some information from two manufacturers follows.

    Huber specs for their subflooring:

    Space fasteners 6" o.c. on supported edges (4' ends) and 12"
    o.c. at intermediate support locations. Ensure that all corners are
    securely fastened. Note: 1-1/8" panels spaced 48" o.c. should
    be fastened 6" o.c. at intermediate support locations.
    Use 8d ring shank nails, screw shank nails, or other code-approved
    fasteners for panels up to 3/4" thick. Use 10d ring shank nails,
    screw shank nails, 2” #9 wood screws, or other code-approved
    fasteners for panels greater than 3/4" thick. For optimal floor
    stiffness, polyurethane glue and screws 2” #8 hardened should be
    used. Fastener heads should slightly penetrate the panel surface.

    GP specs for their I joists:

    Complete all nailing of each panel before glue sets. Check the manufacturer’s recommendations for
    allowable cure time. (Warm weather accelerates glue setting.) Use 6d ring- or screw-shank nails for
    panels 3⁄4-inch thick or less, and 8d ring- or screw-shank nails for thicker panels. Space nails per the table at right. Closer nail spacing may be required by some codes, or for diaphragm construction. The finished deck can be walked on right away and will carry construction loads without damage to the glue bond.

    Manufacturers have very good information, use it. The GP installation guide is very detailed and is 8 pages. My lumber yard sells complete I joist packages that are fully designed,engineered and detailed. That is the proper way to go about using engineered systems like I joists.

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