HRV and SIP panels
I’m designing a single story house in SE Alaska (zone 7) and planning on using SIP construction for the floor and exterior walls. I’m also thinking of using a scissor truss so that I can have a cathedral ceiling in the front and an attic in the back section of the house. I’d like to use SIP panels for the roof, or sheathing, 2×2″ insulation sheets, sheathing and standing seam metal roof. We will be taping the panel joints (and everywhere else) as well as foaming. How do I run ducting for an HRV, as I expect I will most definitely need one?
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Sylvia,
Most HRV ducts are small-diameter ducts, and it isn't that hard to locate all of your ductwork in partition walls.
Here's a link to an article that should provide you with useful information: Installing a Heat-Recovery Ventilator.
In that article, David Hansen wrote, "To keep airflows as high as possible, we use 6-inch duct for stale-air pickups. For fresh-air supplies into bedrooms, 4-inch ducts are usually adequate. We use mainly 30-gauge galvanized ductwork. In 2x4 partitions, we use 6-inch oval duct, which measures 3 1/2 x 7 1/2 inches and comes in 5-foot lengths. Oval duct has a smaller airflow capacity than round but is perfectly adequate for the individual wall stacks. Each register mounts in a 6x10-inch stackhead, a duct fitting that makes the transition from a rectangular register to oval duct."
Thanks Martin. I have another question- the full length of my house has a cathedral ceiling in the front half (great room and one bedroom) and an attic in the back (above a bedroom, bathrooms, mechanical room... ) Given the cathedral ceiling and the climate zone, I plan on insulating the roof on the outside of the sheathing to move the dewpoint up. In this case is the half that has an attic space above it considered conditioned? would it make sense to run the ducting through the attic?