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how would you erect this wall?

Trevor_Lambert | Posted in General Questions on

What would be the most efficient way to erect this double stud wall by myself, with only an occasional pair of extra hands? I was thinking I’d build the inner wall and attach it to the sill plate, raise it, then add the outer wall after. 

A second question: The concrete person who installed the anchor bolts only left them 3″ proud, which isn’t enough to get through two plates. Can I just secure the bottom plate to the slab and then nail the wall onto it? Or should I cut all the bolts off and install wedge anchors? They also installed more than half of them more than 2.5″ from the slab edge, so those ones will be getting replaced no matter what.

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Replies

  1. Expert Member
    Akos | | #1

    I would install the wide sill plate to the 3" screws. On top of it build the outside wall first without the wide top plate.

    I like to do all prep work while the walls are flat. This includes taping seams, install house wrap and rain screen strapping. You can overhang the sheathing 1.25" on the bottom which you can then nail to the sill plate after standing up the wall.

    Simples to stand up a whole wall as one. This might need a couple of guys or wall jacks to do.

    Once the outside wall is up, I would nail on the wide top plate and set your roof trusses.

    When the place is dried in, you can then build the interior stud wall the same way. It helps to build the interior wall a bit shorter (say 3/4") so it is easy to tip up without hitting anything and install a 1x4 shim once the wall is up.

    1. Trevor_Lambert | | #2

      The interior wall is the structural wall.

      1. stamant | | #3

        build the whole assembly then use wall jacks. they are a cheap investment compared to the cost of materials which you can sell after you finish your build.

        corners will be tricky to muscle in and make connections.

        the completed wall assembly has a center of gravity past the face of slab so the anchor is doing a lot of work. [it doesn't look like vertical insulation at face of slab is taking any load from the wall above]. wedge anchors need enough edge distance so that they don't blow out the slab.

        seems very likely that the eccentric loading will make the bottom plate compress the foam sill seall. you end up with a bottom plate that is pitched towards the outside. then all your walls studs will load on the inside toe where it meets the bottom plate.

        you could counter-act this with structural clips bolted to face of slab -- there wouldn't be much energy penalty since they are inboard of the insulation. it's a costly retrofit. [look at something like wood blocking with simpson RCKW as a start point but it's a frankenstein solution] talk to your Engineer about remediation.

      2. Expert Member
        Akos | | #5

        How committed are you to the bottom plate location? The simplest would be to nudge it inward enough so the anchors are in the insulation gap. This would also reduce the cantilever which would let you build the outside wall first followed by inside and then trusses. The extra exposed foam edge could be protected by a larger bend trim and some flashing.

        If the bottom plate must stay, I would install some 6x6 or 8x8 wood corbels say 4'-8' OC lagged to the edge of the foundation. The 2x10 bottom plate can now bear on these for support. You can even make the corbels a bit wider than the foam and have them exposed, it would add a nice detail to the bottom of the walls. The bit of thermal bridging from the corbels is pretty much noise and not a big job to install.

    2. Deleted | | #6

      Deleted

  2. Expert Member
    MALCOLM TAYLOR | | #4

    Trevor,

    Some unrelated comments on the section:

    - You should show how the cellulose will be restrained at the eaves so it doesn't block the soffit venting. With no sheathing and raised heel trusses, I suspect your engineer, or the truss supplier will require structural blocking between the trusses over the exterior walls.
    - You should also run the 1" deep baffles by your inspector, as the minimum ventilation gap depth in Canadian codes is typically 2.5".
    - The section you posted cuts off the description of the strapping for the metal roofing, but the spacing looks wider than what most manufacturer's require.
    - The slab edge insulation needs more protection against both mechanical damage and pests than parging to grade will provide.

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