How to handle SE/SW orientation? And any experiences with Richlin windows?
I’m planning a not-quite almost-passive retrofit to a 1,400 sq. ft. 1-1/2 story Cape Cod in Minneapolis (shooting for R-40 walls & R-50-80 roof). I’m looking for a US window manufacturer who can come close to European quality without the high cost, lead time and shipping impact. Oh yeah, and the windows must be standard crank-out casement as I have no interest in tilt / turn (I’ve used them plenty in Europe).
Lo and behold I stumbled across the Richlin 500 Casement. It’s made down the road in Hayfield, MN and claims a 0.13 U-value, 82 CR, 0.01 air infiltration, 12psi water infiltration for the triple pane, Krypton, foam insulated vinyl. Specs look good other than the lack of a high VT, high SHGC variant (0.22 SHGC and 0.36 VT are the best they can do in a 3-pane). These numbers beat a lot of higher priced windows for the non-south sides, but I’m not satisfied choosing a window based on specs alone. Does anyone have any experience with Richlin (Hayfield) in terms of quality, aesthetics, operability and service? http://richlinwindow.com/documents/Richlin%20performance%20chart.pdf
On a related note, the home is angled 30 degrees off of south facing, which means the long front of the home faces southeast, and the shorter side yard faces southwest. There is good summer tree shading on the southeast side (with 40sqft window surface), but only partial shading on the southwest side (with 24sqft window surface). In this case, is it worth spec’ing high SHGC windows for SE and SW even make sense, or should I stick with the same window for the whole house? Or should I maybe just high use SHGC on the SE (front side)?
Thanks!
Ryan
GBA Detail Library
A collection of one thousand construction details organized by climate and house part
Replies
Ryan,
If I were you, I would try to find a window with better glazing specs (higher SHGC) for the southeast orientation. To determine the effect of different window specs on your annual energy budget, you'll have to use an energy modeling program like RESFEN or PHPP.
On the other orientations of your house, the low-SHGC glazing will work.
If you want to visit a house in Minneapolis with Richlin windows, you might be able to visit this house:
Habitat’s New Net-Zero House in Minneapolis.
Thanks Martin, I appreciate your advice. I will look into the software, as I have no experience with that yet. Since I've already woke up from dreams about window specs, I guess it's time to learn!
As far as the Habitat Net Zero House, that was what got me thinking about Richlin in the first place. I haven't seen them in person, but will see if I can reach out to the school or architect.
I did call Richlin and asked if they could switch to a lower low-E or clear glass on these for the SE face. They were not willing to customize glass. It strikes me as odd that US companies won't do this, as it seems like an easy way to get more Passive business. Now I'm going to have to look for another manufacturer for the front windows.
Thanks,
Ryan
Good advice from Martin there. I don’t know much about the programs he mentioned, but the advice he has given on choosing windows based on SHGC and direction is great to balance the energy efficiency and cost required. I would also suggest to check with other companies to look for more options in terms of service and product types. Also, going through some reviews on sites like Homestars and Ontario Window Reviews will help in choosing the best company.
Kohltech, made in Canada, makes nice casements, offering a wide variety of glass options, including high and low SHGC. Delivery to Maine was a month or so from order date.
I'd be pretty concerned about the very low VT offered by Richlin.
"Specs look good other than the lack of a high VT, high SHGC variant (0.22 SHGC and 0.36 VT are the best they can do in a 3-pane). "
That is the problem with US made windows. For the most part the manufacturers have NO CLUE about Passive House techniques so they make low SHGC windows. Even in Zone5 climates they will try and sell you < 0.25 SHGC windows. That is why European windows are ahead of the game because they recognize Passive House techniques. European windows like Intus sell triple pane in SHGC levels from 0.25 - 0.62. It's "free" heat from the sun during winter, who wouldn't want to take advantage of that?
SW is not a great direction for solar gain due to summer gain. SE has the trees. The gains in winter to me cancel with the summer. I don't think any software would show the value of finding a different window for solar gain worth the search.
IMO jump in your auto and go see your new windows at the habitat home. Then place an order.
Some window manufacturers to consider (who do provide custom glass options):
Fiberframe in Ohio
Loewen in Canada
I currently live in a home that was designed as passive solar. If the eaves are designed for the proper angles, both SE and SW, the amount of solar gain in the summer should be minimal due to the angle of the sun. In the summer the sun would be slightly higher and if the home is oriented correctly and the eaves are correct, the majority of the high sun should be shaded.
With that said, on a good sunny winter day with garbage windows (dual pane, aluminum frame, no special glazing, no clue on SGHC) I can easily raise the temperature of my home 10 F in a matter of 3-4 hours. My home is by no means a PH though.