How to airseal an outswing exterior door?
![](https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/a76cfcbdcf1f8dedbb03da69532cd3bb?s=52&d=https%3A%2F%2Fimages.greenbuildingadvisor.com%2Fapp%2Favatars%2F200x200%2Fm.png&r=g)
We have three 3’0 X 6’8 outswing exterior doors to install. The jamb of the door needs to seal to the Zip sheathing, but I am concerned that I might still have an air leak through the strike plate.
Can anyone give me guidance or instructions for airsealing an outswing door?
GBA Detail Library
A collection of one thousand construction details organized by climate and house part
![](https://www.greenbuildingadvisor.com/app/themes/greenbuildingadvisor/dist/img/modules/detail-library/thumb1.png)
![](https://www.greenbuildingadvisor.com/app/themes/greenbuildingadvisor/dist/img/modules/detail-library/thumb2.png)
Replies
Hi Mark -
Conductive and convective heat loss at door handles/locksets are bedeviling. But you should be able to continuously run a gasket along the door stop into which the door will set?
I am might be missing something in your door configuration (must admit I don't follow "jamb of the door needs to seal to the ZIP sheathing" - this means you have no door frame?). Perhaps an image--even a hand-drawing would help.
Peter
Peter,
I think Mark is worried that if his air-sealing layer is the outside of the frame, that with an out-swing door the strike plate affords an opportunity for air to bypass it.
I'd suggest that a combination of canned-foam and taping the interior of the frame to the studs should work.
I would imagine most door stops are, but making sure that it is air tight to the jam would also matter depending on location of door seals. If its a simple continuous jam, seems like sealing/taping the inside jam to frame as Malcolm suggests would seal up any potential by-pass in any of those locations.
Thank you, gentlemen. Foam is the answer.
How is the door protected from the weather? Are you installing a door sill pan?