Historic Victorian renovation
I’m contemplating an addition/renovation to our one story 1700sf 1895 Queen Anne home (local landmark designation and also in a local historic district) in climate zone 2A. Currently the house has (from bottom to top):
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pier and beam foundation with minimally vented dirt floor crawlspace
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T&G pine floors (mostly a mishmash of ages due to multiple renovations etc) with no sub-floor
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dutch lap siding with no exterior sheathing, ship-lap on the interior with a few layers of drywall
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some walls seem to have blown in cellulose – no evidence of poor paint adhesion yet
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some blown in insulation in attic, 2×4 rafters about 24” OC, with purlins, plywood and an asphalt shingle roof.
The addition will be a 1.5 story about 1000sf set to the side and back (for various reasons, we aren’t contemplating much change to the original house’s floorplan – the addition is for our growing family). I know that we could live happily in a designed-from-scratch 1700sf house, but that isn’t in the cards.
The new addition will be a “pretty good house” – I expect it exceed our local energy code and be on a separate HVAC system. The older part of the house is where I’m trying to balance some decisions. So far, I’ve decided to:
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move the HVAC system & ductwork to the attic (and, although local code doesn’t require it, I feel that this entails insulating and conditioning the attic to some extent). The crawlspace is about 18”-24” high, and I really hate that the ducts are down there.
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encapsulate the crawlspace (possibly insulating, and either condition or dehumidifying it)
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renovate and weatherstrip the existing windows and doors
My questions mostly involve whether I’m missing some areas I should address, or whether I should do more (or less) in the direction I plan. For example:
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By concentrating on the roof, foundation, and windows/doors in this phase am I missing some big energy savings? We are too shaded for PV, but I would love that, if we weren’t surrounded by large trees.
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Should I remove any cellulose from the wall cavities? I think our budget won’t allow opening up all the walls on the interior or exterior (lots of trim), but I plan on doing that in the next few years – hopefully from the outside where I can properly sheathe the walls and add a WRB. I figured I would take the energy hit for a few years, and then come back and do the walls.
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I plan to insulate as much as I can at the roofline, but does that require rigid foam above? The attic space will be connected to the living space by a hatch, but will otherwise be unoccupied.
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How much air-sealing should I invest in for the old house (and for the new)? Current code is 5ACH @ 50pa.
We have an architect and are interviewing builders, most of whom are relatively energy conscious (one just had AeroBarrier come out to do their Passive House), and I expect some of these questions will be hashed out when we hire a builder, but I’d like to be as informed as possible beforehand.
Thanks for any questions or advice!
Matt
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Replies
Hi Matt -
You did a good job setting up your project but it's just an awful lot to ask in a Q&A.
Here is my general advice:
The physics of building science require you to accomplish better performance in your existing building and addition in this order of priority:
1. bulk water management
2. air tightness
3. thermal
- Ensure that your current building is not letting bulk water in; from the exterior, inspect all flashings and penetrations looking for punkiness, water stains, reverse-lapped flashings, end grain of exposed wood in direct contact with surfaces that get wet/hold water.
- Think of every non-vertical surface as a roof, in terms of bulk water management.
- Air seal in this order of priority (use the Energy Star Thermal Bypass Checklist as your guide):
1. top first (attic)
2. bottom next (rim joist)
3. shafts (any vertical penetration from bottom to top of your structure)
4. walls LAST
Code requires you to have a moisture barrier over any bare soil in a crawlspace - do that to start as well.
To me, window replacement comes last; improve existing window performance with air-tight storms and energy-efficient window treatments.
Peter