Henry Blueskin Concerns
B3V1156
| Posted in Green Products and Materials on
Hello, we are about to begin frame on a build in Vermont zone 6B and I am having some concerns with the WRB we have chosen to proceed with (Henry Blueskin VP160). The main concern is how well this product will adhere to the sheathing in frigid temperatures? (10-20 degrees Fahrenheit). If it does properly adhere, could these temperatures cause problems while left exposed until siding? (EST 1-2 months). It’s still not too late to switch our current sheathing (15/32” CDX) to a 7/16” Zip, just not sure if that has any advantage or disadvantage over the Blueskin?
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Replies
Garrett,
Don't forget there are other choices. You might consider a conventional sheet WRB like Tyvek Commercial, which uses mechanical fasteners and can be exposed for six months.
Henry definitely has reduced adhesion at lower temperatures. I have also experienced major differences in adhesion based on where I bought it. Local lumber yard was poor while online was great. I don’t know why this was, I think maybe age and storage techniques.
I installed it around the 30 degree mark and it was not ideal. One tip if you do is add mechanical fasteners on top edge during install (staples, not cap fasteners). These will get covered anyways and won’t hurt anything.
Lastly, they make a primer to apply that increases adhesion, I would recommend this in a cold application. Though I dont know if this will have poor cold performance as well.
All peel and sticks have poor adhesion at lower temps, but some are definitely better than others. I dont know about the other major brands (pro climate, delta, Obdyke) but someone with low temp experience could chime in. Zip tape has good adhesion at lower temperatures, so you could either use that as your wrb or tape your plywood with it and use sheet wrb like Malcom mentioned.
freyr_design,
I understand the benefit of self-adhered WRBs in retrofit situations where you are using them as air-barriers, but is there a real advantage in new construction?
For new homes with double-stud walls, I prefer using plywood sheathing rather than the Zip sheathing I use in other situations, for its better long-term resistance to moisture. In either case, I almost always treat the sheathing as the air control layer. Some builders I work with like to tape the plywood seams and run a separate WRB, but others prefer to save a step and install a self-adhering membrane over everything instead.
I like it for detailing when you have exterior insulation and if is acting as your air barrier. I think when it comes to penetrations SA and liquid flash give you some flexibility on how you maintain both air and water barrier. Having it as both the air and water barrier eliminates some of the effort with making the penetration both waterproof and air sealed, depending on your install sequence.
I kind of like it over zip in that you don’t need to use osb. I have gotten zip delivery that has had severe formaldehyde smell, and assume that takes a while to fully off gas.
I like it better than the air and water barriers that are adhered top and bottom because I feel like an error at any point on that surface translates through the entire sheet. Though I guess this might be an unfounded concern.
I think in general it gives you a more forgiving install than a sheet wrb like tyvek. It also looks way cooler…..
Also Henry vp100 has a 5 month exposure rating. I believe the vp160 is their more commercial oriented SA. I also think it has a lower perm than vp100 but I could be wrong, been awhile sense I looked at the spec sheet.
As freyr_design mentioned, stapling the top edge is a great idea. You can also tape the seams to create a continuous sheet of blueskin after install. Taping is an extra step but but if you can heat the tape up overbight indoors it should adhere pretty well.
Correct me if I'm wrong, but when I was checking out Henry Blue Skin VP100 I too found VP160 (could buy but couldn't find any info about VP160 differences), Henry has an install video in snow. They also have an install of their liquid flash in the snow. I do question if that's within their specs after my prosoco and benjamin obdyke experience with liquid flash.
Spec sheet should tell you install temp and UV exposure times. Again, i couldn't find VP160 anything though. I would defer to the VP100 spec sheet as it's clear the product number goes larger as it gets more defensive.
Could apply and consider hanging tarps or some UV exposure screen from your soffit. That way you aren't worried about that material abrading the Blue Skin? Won't look good, but it's not like house wrap is nice to look at either. Good luck
Hi Ryan, the 2x6 exterior walls are being fabricated by a supplier out of Canada. Apart of the fabrication is apply the sheathing, WRB and rain screen. The VP160 Sopraseal is their equivalent to the Blueskin VP100.
The fabricated panels will be built in a climate controlled setting so not concerned there. The walkout walls for the basement will be framed on site, though (70 LF of wall) and that is where the temperature concern comes into play. Two large gables will also need to have this WRB applied on site in mid January. After thinking about this further, I do feel the blueskin might just be a tad bit overkill, as StuSid had mentioned. We’re leaning towards the Zip sheathing in lieu of Blueskin and CDX and create a Bonfiglioli wall system. I don’t have much concern with the use of Zip sheathing and tape in cold temperatures.
If it’s really cold a simple plug in heat gun can definitely make a big difference installing any of these wraps/ tapes. It’s an extra step but it’s satisfying to watch it stick and it goes pretty fast.
I used VP100 in ~35 F degree weather in Vermont a few weeks ago. It works. It's stickier if you keep it inside, cut it inside and then walk outside and stick it on. I can't speak for temps lower that that. It's actually kinda nice that it isn't so sticky at the cooler temps, it makes it easier to pull off small areas and reapply if you make a mistake.