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Gold standard for liquid flashing and house wrap integration…but what is it?

Ryan_SLC | Posted in General Questions on

I’m so sorry to be back on a question so soon. Thank you for your time to help me out.

I am seeing manufactures allow for WRB folded into the window rough opening or cut back a few inches before rough opening to then have liquid flashing on the WRB, sheathing, and then on the rough opening. Options are great. But..mechanically, one has to be better, no?

I get it. Water should never be expected to pass the house wrap. We’re on the same page. However, does layers win or does liquid flashing on sheathing have a mechanical advantage?

I’ve already purchased and will happily toss out what ever isn’t used. But I have enough liquid flash and tape to do any combination to get the gold standard.

I am using the Benjamin Obdyke products if it matters. I selected it over Zip because tape and flash have a perm rating.

I am currently considering the cut back method, liquid flashing on the WRB, sheathing and full liquid flashing the rough opening. Then tape the window nail flanges after with overly wide tape.

Lastly, a lot of install videos have builders using painters tape while applying the liquid flash so it appears nicely done for the home owner. Even Matt R says it. But excess liquid flashing that is on the painters tape that is then pulled off…those streaks aren’t actually a problem, right?

Thanks a million!

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Replies

  1. matthew25 | | #1

    Fluid applied WRB's absolutely have a mechanical adhesion over traditional housewraps. They have continuous adhesion across the entire body of the WRB, rather than point-loads near cap fasteners. They also double as both a WRB and an air barrier that housewraps cannot achieve. That doesn't mean mechanically fastened WRB's don't do the job though. And fluid-applied WRB's can be really expensive. Either option has been shown to work, it comes down to personal tradeoff decisions.

    You can wait a little longer for the liquid flash to slightly set to the touch before pulling off the tape. Not fully cure, just not runny. I don't think the streaks do any harm but if you're worried about the messy look this is what I would do.

    1. Ryan_SLC | | #2

      Thanks Matthew. Just confirming that I don't mean total liquid WRB, just the liquid flashing material in a sausage.

      Thanks!

  2. Ryan_SLC | | #3

    I hope I phrased this right or wasn't abrasive.

    There has to be a green, energy, weather protection, and mechanical clear winner for how to cut/fold house wrap with liquid flash.

  3. andy_ | | #4

    There is a gold standard that hands down is more effective across the board and is proven to greatly reduce water intrusion and even makes paint last longer and it's been around for decades, even centuries. It's a big roof overhang. Make a big enough roof overhang and your siding and windows won't even need to be flashed well at all since they won't get wet to begin with.

    1. Ryan_SLC | | #5

      I wish. But on my 8'W wall that has a 3x7 window...no overhang is saving that.

      For sure, when I saw the over hang the contractor put on, I immediately texted for larger.

      But, still would like the house wrap/liquid flashing gold standard for windows.

    2. Expert Member
      Michael Maines | | #8

      Andy, that's true, unless your house has more than one story or you live in a place where rain is accompanied by strong wind. Most places I've worked get horizontal and even upside-down rain, no exaggeration.

  4. Patrick_OSullivan | | #6

    > I am using the Benjamin Obdyke products if it matters. I selected it over Zip because tape and flash have a perm rating.

    Then follow their recommendation.

    I like liquid flashing for certain things, but flashing and installing windows is not one of them, typically. If you can cut an RO and liquid flash it with sufficient time to cure, that's one thing. But I don't understand the desire to liquid flash over window flanges. Tape is so obviously (to me) a better option, and it doesn't require the paranoia of trying to avoid getting liquid flashing on pre-finished windows.

    1. Ryan_SLC | | #7

      Hey Patrick,

      Sorry, yes. I agree with that in theory. My current plan is to liquid flash the entire rough, but then use their tape over the nail fins. Both tape and liquid flash have a perm rating, and tape is black. So bonus there.

      Like DuPont, Typbar, Henryy, Benjamin Odbyke shows multiple ways including I cut/fold and cut back. Cut back from most of them with a liquid flash show either tape or liquid flash on sheathing and onto house wrap.

      I bought enough tape and enough liquid flash to do my four windows using one or a combo of both.

      Since world truly is my nonreturnable oyster, why not ask you all the experts for the science of which works best.

      There is a lot of sweating the details here, but this one seems like someone has done the testing and proven one is superior to the other. House wrap can't be equal strong, secure, and house wrap, tape, and liquid flashing...even on top of each other, one is superior. All are "good enough" isn't doing it for me.

      1. Malcolm_Taylor | | #9

        Ryan_SLC,

        Why you aren't getting the definitive response you want - and why there is no testing available - is because the difference in the method chosen is in the weeds compared to how either is executed. It's like going to a car forum and arguing about whether to use Adams or Meguiares wax. What's important is regularly using one and putting it on diligently.

        The biggest difference between DIY and experienced builders is knowing what matters, and where it is important to put your focus. Flip a coin, choose one method, and get your windows in.

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