Flashing Euro Windows (no nailing fin) & fix Tyvek?
I’ve been reading the Q & A and watched some Matt Risinger videos so I’m coming up against a lot of differences with the contractors we have been working with. Trying to do things as properly as possible without being too nitpicky. That being said, I have 2 issues (currently) to address. For clarity, I am being the GC and have hired trades that were (mostly) referred to me. I am in Southern Ontario.
Tyvek – was stapled and very close to the door/window frames and the bottom. 1a) should I tape all the staples to help with water b) when the flashing was added it wasn’t sliced, they just pushed it up to get it in there. Now it’s all torn. Should I tape across that whole section as well or just leave it since metal trim will go under and it will get retaped? I have some 2″ 3M 8067 on hand.
Windows have no nail fin and trying to determine how to flash them. They put zip tape around the interior (not shingled but too late) so focusing on the exterior now and how to mitigate any water from getting in. Also do I/they cut down all that foam once it’s set? We are doing a metal vertical board and batten siding.
Any advice would be appreciated!
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In regard to your tyvek it should have been installed with cap fasteners, in fact I believe tyvek required cap fasteners. If regular staples were used I think tyvek says you should cover with tyvek tape but you still need cap fasteners. Someone can correct me if I’m wrong.
It *should* be, but you can use special staples as per the Tyvek website. I will grab some tape and just do it anyway.
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That is not too bad. You have decent overhangs pretty close to windows, so instllation details are not as critical. The head flashing for all your windows should go under the tyvec flap on the top. Once that is in, the tyvek should be taped to the flashing for a nice clean install.
The one that caught my eye, is I didn't see any sill flashing under you patio slider. Generally not an issue if concrete is sloped or if that is a covered area. Quick test is to dump a bucket of water into the track of the slider. None of that should get into the house.
I'm less worried about the staples, cap staples are not too common here. Under most circumstances, not enough leaks in through those small holes to matter.
When they are doing the metal, make sure that metal trim goes into the groove around your window frames and the metal sill should be sloped to drain to the outside.
Thank you for your reply! I really don't like how far out they are but they 'matched the slider' , but my main concern was water mitigation. Hopefully, we don't get a lot of wind-driven rain there.
Regarding the door, I actually had our siding contractor construct a sill pan, and there is blue skin below that. It is only down about 1.5", and you can see it a bit in the one photo. He plans on putting another piece of trim overtop, I believe.
However - here's an issue I didn't mention yesterday re some foam that was added (see new pics). I had the flashing done and added a PVC sill pan below the door so that any water would drain outward. I guess the concrete had a slope so the window company filled the void with foam. It looks like there is also a wood shim in there on the one pic to bridge the space. Pics show the connection at each end.
I'm also noticing that where it is sloped there is a circle protruding from the concrete. rebar was placed vertically so this is weird unless it's mesh. Either way, not great. I checked the level of the interior and there is a slight change but nothing huge, at the moment.
Anyway, thoughts on this foam situation? Seems like a bad idea since the reason for the sillpan is to allow drainage. I'm not sure how water would enter now but if it did, it has no way out. And won't that wood shim rot?
You are right, they should have allowed for drainage at the bottom. The orange color at the left side looks like backer rod, so the foam probably doesn't go in too deep and may not be too difficult to remove.
The attachment has a map showing the general driving rain potential across Canada.
Thank you - I thought that was perhaps a shim. Do you know the best way to remove cured spray foam? If it is removed and there is a gap the size of the foam shown, do you feel that leaving it open and then just covering it with a trim piece across is the best move forward?
Re the above sliding door question, if anyone has thoughts about the blueskin tape location. I thought he laid blueskin along the concrete sill and up the sides, and then the blueskin down the framing but when I look at the pictures it looks like the sides are *under* the bottom flashing?
Adding this sill pan caused a bigger water issue than without it I feel like. Any remediation I should be doing?
I cut a few holes out of the foam to create little weep holes, which hopefully is a good idea. But, what should happen with this blue tape? Will water that comes down and just collect in that corner area?