drip cap for door flush with framing?
over the weekend i removed the janky patio door that came with the house and replaced it with a tilt and glide door. i also replaced the transom window above it.
the house has 2×4 framing, something a little over 1″ for an air gap between the sheathing and brick siding. the door is installed flush with the sheathing.
expanding foam tape went around the door, with spray foam to completely fill the remaining gap, and that 1″ gap between the siding allowed me to do a decent job at applying some flashing tape. liquid flashing went on top of the tape for the corners.
the existing door had half inch foam board for sheathing, a piece of siding and various boards cobbled together. no flashing tape or anything of that nature, but zero signs of rot after 20 years.
i understand the purpose of a drip cap, but are they needed for a door that is flush with the house framing? every instance i am finding involves a door or window that protrudes from the houses framing.
(picture is of old door)
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With the large overhang you have at the door, your door doesn't see a lot of water. I would still treat it like any other door but if you don't want to, you might get away with it.
i've lived here two years and have had some pretty crazy rain with 60+ mph winds and water seemingly never hits the transom above. since there was zero rotted wood with the original trim/framing being door header --> foam board --> siding, no gap between the foam/siding, no house wrap, flashing tape, etc..
however, i will do my best to make a drip cap work.
cs55,
As Michaels says, it's hard to think of how water would get at the head of that door. Our code allows you to forgo the flashing if the distance between the door and the overhang above is less than four times the overhang depth.
To broaden the discussion out a bit: The head flashing over a door does two things. It protects the head of the door from water intrusion, and it directs any water that gets into the wall to the outside. So whether the door frame is flush or protrudes, it should usually have a head flashing.
patio is 13x12 or so and the covering is part of the houses roof.
i will do my best to make a drip cap work. but the trimming part has been a little new to me. especially since the door has no integrated jamb/brickmoulding like an american pre-hung french door or standard american sliding door.
instead of siding i am trying to use pvc trim board, since its such a small amount needed. i also removed the half inch foam board in order to use 1" foam board. every bit counts i suppose.
seems that i need to find someone with a metal brake to make me a custom ~77" drip cap.
cs55,
In your situation, and with how you are planning to trim it out, I don't see much point in adding the head-flashing. I would tape off all the areas that will be covered by trim with something like Tyvek StraightFlash.
When I get exterior doors without brickmolds, I make my own and install them before the door goes in. It makes things a lot simpler.