Correcting my poorly done semi-conditioned attic
I have a 1941 house that was moved onto its current location in the 70’s. Here, we have remarkably high water table and the moisture stack effect is something I will be addressing. I will do the covering for the moist dirt floor in the crawl space to reduce rising moisture. Currently the crawl space is at 70 % humidity.
I am removing all the fiberglass insulation I previously put in the rafter bays and too far out to the top of the walls because we get condensation on the boards. Not good. And I failed to previously put in soffit vents and baffles.
I had thought that I’d have less mice in the insulation too by putting it in the rafter bays…but they have tunneled into it anyway. Dang mice.
It would be great to blow in cellulose but I am concerned about mice and moisture rising up through the cellulose. I am thinking about trying to cut and cobble rigid insulation to allow for a central attic conditioned space with venting up the open rafter bays and some kind of insulation out under the lower roof lines towards the eaves.
I don’t see how to get above R-13 or R-19 out where the roof slopes down because of tight space. Is that Ok?
Also, I am having difficulty understanding what to use for a vapor barrier to reduce the amount of moisture traveling up under the roof deck.
The good news is I am getting a new roof ( hail damage) in 2014. I just want to engineer the ventilation, insulation, condensation, right this time around.
The roofer advised on roof slope ventilation because of my limited soffits.
Any considerations with this?
Many thanks for anyone’s input.
Rachel
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Replies
If you're doing a new roof, why not put the rigid foam boards above the roof decking?
The order of operations to improve the moisture and energy performance of a building is:
1. manage moisture FIRST
2. manage air leakage SECOND (and managing air leakage manages both the flow of heat and moisture).
3. Manage conductive heat flow (insulation) LAST.
Peter