Battens for metal siding?
rodrob15
| Posted in General Questions on
Hello All,
Is it recommended to install metal siding with battens so there’s an air gap? Most metal siding is ribbed, which kind of creates its own air channels, so I’m wondering if that’s enough to promote drying? I’m also interested in hearing about real world experiences with crinkle house wrap.
I just got done with a house build where I installed fiber cement lap siding over 2” of roxul comfortboard and 2×4 battens. The installation went ok, but was a big undertaking. On my next house (to begin this year), I’d like to do something that’s a little easier/faster, but is also highly durable with little maintenance.
Thanks,
Robert
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What climate zone are you in? Are you thinking of horizontal or vertical siding application? Are you still planning exterior insulation? I just finished a project with horizontal metal siding. It's very satisfying to install large sheets. You can get a lot of siding done in a day if the details aren't too tricky.
Robert,
I don't have direct experience with metal siding, but I do have metal roofing. One of the requirements for metal roofing is high temperature resistant roofing underlayment. For me, the local code requires it to be water and ice proof high temp underlayment. The Obdyke netting material or crinkley materials may not do well in close contact with metal that gets far hotter than other materials. You would need to confirm with any company when making a choice that you are not violating their usage and warranty requirements.
Obviously, aluminum siding has been with us for decades, so I am writing from the stand point of other metal panel siding choices. It is very unlikely that the millions of homes using aluminum or even vinyl siding are much beyond basic Tyvek type materials. I am not sure why that does not result in more problems, but I can offer some views on panel type materials.
Where I live it is popular to use un-galvanized metal roof profiles both as siding and roofing. The slow rusting ends up looking organic and one with the local landscape if poetic and like an abandoned mining shack if of other mind. Consider the fade rate of coated metal stocks. The sun will not likely hit all areas the same and after 15-20 years the fading can be potentially sad looking what with full color up under the eaves and a chalky memory of color below. Painting is always the fall back of course.
If used as a face fastened panel, the thermal expansion and contraction tends to rock the screws back and forth causing them to loosen over time. For roofs it means going up topside and tightening them every 5 years, or so I have been told. Not being fond of heights, I went with clip mounted standing seam and pray that the clips are not rocking back and forth as the panels expand and contract. Look for clip mounted over face screwed. Be sure to follow screw length and gasket recommendations from suppliers.
The panels do make creaky noises, though it is mostly background level. Until it rains or hails. Some people love the pinging other less so. Consider the local weather and if hail is a big part of the mix, remember how cars look after a storm. Colorado Springs is a bit notorious for sides of building being taken out, metal or not.
For some guidance on possible choices, you might want to google metal siding in the Texas area. I became aware of a very sleek metal siding option due to one local build. The builder indicated the material was popular in that part of the country. Maybe elsewhere as well, I just haven't pursued further yet. I have my own build pending for this year and as you might tell, I have my reservations about going metal all over. It did present a very clean modern look.
Venting the siding can be tricky in the details, as keeping critters and insects from behind the siding is important. They may not like the hot metal, but protected access to the rest of the house may be just what they need to establish residence further in. Trims for standard siding offer their own homes for spiders and such, so I may be over reacting to the endless supply of mice in my area.
Best of luck in your new build.
I am doing corrugated metal right now. As Joel said, it can be very satisfying when you can finish a simple wall before lunch, by yourself.
That said, depending on window detailing and location and the look you're going for, getting around windows and doors can be very tricky and unforgiving.
There are tricks you will learn after you do a few panels that you realize are impossible to install the way you have set them up.
Tyvek states that you can use metal siding on top of it, I assume they have taken the heat into account.
If you're concerned about color fading, use galvanized panels. They're bright at first but will oxidize in a year or two to a very pleasant look. I am doing painted panels now and it is frustrating scratching the paint with any wrong move.
Cost per square foot is reasonable compared to nice wood options, even for thicker gauge and high quality paint.
Robert,
It depends entirely on the profile of the panels. Corrugated siding meets the requirements of our building code for rain-screens without additional battens if installed vertically. Most other profiles require a gap and horizontal support, and that means using either a cross-hatching of battens, or a material that allows air and water movement like Cor-a-Vent.
Crinkled house-wraps provide very few of the attributes we use rain-screens for. Mesh like Cedar-breather is better, but still not great, and I don't know how easy it is to install metal over.
As Joe said, the devil is in the details. You need to know how to cut the panels and flashing for about five or six common conditions, or the cladding isn't very water resistant. They aren't hard to learn, but are also not anywhere near as simple as installing Hardi--plank.
Thanks for all the responses folks. To clarify, I will be doing vertical galvalume metal siding with a factory paint finish (typically under warranty for 40 years). This is the exact same material as used for most metal roofs. What interests me so much is the speed at which the panels can be installed and the durability.
To answer Joel, I'm located in West Virginia, Zone 5 climate. I likely won't do exterior insulation again. On my current house, which I built myself, I wanted it to be very durable and energy-efficient (i.e. 2x6 walls, 2'' comfortboard exterior insulation, rain-screen behind siding and roof, fiber cement siding, mini-split HVAC + HRV, etc.). After going through the process, I'm not sold on exterior insulation, at least for my climate. It just doesn't get that cold here any more even though its Zone 5 and we have very moderate springs, summers, and falls. I'm not sure I added enough value to warrant the cost and time it took to add exterior insulation. So on my next build, I'll continue focusing on durability and energy-efficiency, but will get there without exterior insulation.
Corrugated galvalum panels are really stiff and allow a lot of air-movement. You would only need strapping every four feet or so (3 on an average height wall). I'd be tempted to bevel the top of some 1"x3" and use that without the double layers or proprietary products I recommended earlier. Finish the bottom with a perforated drip flashing.