Attic insulation need a solution…
Hello,
I live in Northern Virginia and I am at the stage of my home addition where I have to make a decision on insulating my attic (R-38). I have read quite a bit and know there are clear advantages of various types with the balance favoring blown in cellulose. My house is in town and small and I need the attic space for storage. No way around it, so cellulose in the attic floor won’t work in my case unfortunately. My plumbing and geothermal air-handler are also in the attic space, once again due to size constraints. I am a believer in attic ventilation and have soffit and ridge vents. It seems my choices are foam or batt or combination. I knohave w I have to be careful about vapor barriers and that has led to more confusion and consternation… I was thinking about the best way to handle my situation and wanted an opinion on my thoughts…
My roof is at about a 39 degree slope, the rafters are 2×8 and 2×6 prefab trusses. I was thinking about using foil faced 2″ rigid foam insulation (R-13) in between the rafters with a 1″ airspace gap from the sheathing for ventilation. Then I was going to have a spray foam contractor seal the underside of the insulation board with open cell insulation. If I add a layer of Prodex foil faced polyethylene between the rigid foam board and the airspace (on top of the foam board prior to putting them between the rafters while maintaining my airspace for ventilation), I can significantly reduce my spray-foam costs, meeting my R-38 requirement with 5″ of open-cell. I vaguely remember reading something about open cell foam at 5″ or less not requiring the fire retardant coating but I haven’t been able to find any reference to verify this notion. I am largely concerned about vapor barriers and making condensation problems with this scheme. Any thoughts on this plan or a recommended solution to my situation would be greatly appreciated. Best regards from Virginia.
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Replies
Scott,
Prodex reflective insulation is sold by scam artists. It has a total thickness of less than 1/4 inch; its R-value is about R-1. Don't spend a penny for this worthless product. (If you install foil-faced polyiso adjacent to your ventilation channel, you already have a radiant barrier facing your air space.)
If you are installing 2 inches of rigid polyiso (R-13) and 5 inches of open-cell spray foam (R-18), you have a total of R-31. That still falls short of your goal of R-38.
Talk to your local building official to determine thermal barrier requirements for spray foam in your jurisdiction. Many jurisdictions require spray foam to be protected by drywall or an equivalent covering.
If you end up installing 5 inches of open-cell spray foam, you won't need a vapor retarder in your climate.
Thanks for the quick response and thanks for the heads up on Prodex. Numbers have been a bit of a challenge for me, too much marketing I'm afraid. Northern Virginia spray foam have rated their open cell product at R 4.5 per inch which is much higher than I am used to seeing... Based on your comments it seems I will need about 7" of spray foam to get my R-38 based on a more common R 3.6 per inch with a fire barrier to seal it. Thanks again for the help