Air sealing doors is frustrating — need help
Hi,
I am trying to air seal all my exterior doors, but I have run out of ideas and ways to seal remaining gaps. Please chime in if you can.
I have already replaced the channel rubber seal around the doors and also the bottom seal. I have caulked around the frame inside the door and even the bottom where the molding meets the floor.
Air still comes through bottom corners and also at the height of the deadbolt and door knob.
Right now I am trying to seal these remaining gaps with a vinyl adhesive strip called V Seal (frost king sells this one).
This is supposed to be a great solution to use when you have gaps that start small and get bigger due to a door not being flush, so the V seal will conform to the gap and seals it along the different gap sizes up the door frame.
The problem is the vinyl gets “wavy” once you stick it to the frame and fold it and then it will not seal the frame and will have air gaps as seen on these pictures. (this door goes to attic)
It seems that you have to get it 100% straight to avoid any waves, but this is almost impossible to do if you want a long strip to be continuous along the frame.
If you cut small sections you have better chances of getting it straight, but otherwise I have tried many different ways to stick it to the frame and you will always get air gaps and waves to form as shown.
Any suggestions on how to use this product or maybe other ways to seal gaps along the frame that get bigger due to door not being flush and those at bottom and at door hardware height are very much appreciated. thanks
Thanks
[IMG]https://www.dropbox.com/s/cpp4srmbn2ikgro/20181201_163850.jpg?RAW=1[/IMG]
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Attachments are not working. Uploads image as zero kb.
Links to pictures, sorry.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/cpp4srmbn2ikgro/20181201_163850.jpg?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/q6ae4heubj5fjml/20181201_163913.jpg?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/c8s3aov2h08x090/20181202_134133.jpg?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/23wvjndquni2al3/20181202_133751.jpg?dl=0
Ye olde air seal in a door frame was a metal spring strip in the frame that would seal against the edge of a door. Such a seal lasts a looong time, but I’m not sure anyone does it that way anymore.
I’m not entirely sure of the product you’re using, but I have successfully installed some kinds of weatherstripping in the past by stretching it a little on a long metal straightedge (usually one of the 6 foot aluminum construction rulers) and using the edge of the straightedge to push the weatherstripping down straight and even. It’s a bit of a trick, but it ensures perfectly even application force and no wavies in the adhesive strip when you’re done.
Bill
You can buy the old school copper spring strip as well as the copper nails to attach it. Tiny bead of caulk where the flat portion is nailed helps.
Sprung threshold sweeps look effective but you have to take the door off, remove some material, etc.
Around the strike and the deadbolt I have put the cloth type sealer from FrostKing. Cut to strips, nailed with the copper nails from spring strip. A balance of allowing the door to shut easily but still sealing it up a bit.
I've been in your shoes and find it infuriating to try to get a good seal with new weatherstripping on an old door, particularly along the bottom of the door, which reminded me of this article from FHB. Something to consider:
https://www.finehomebuilding.com/2008/09/10/stop-drafts-with-a-drop-down-door-seal
Here is a solution similar to the above using automatic door bottoms ADB's and a variety of different weatherstripping. I find hardware stores carry the cheapest weatherstripping available with bad cold weather performance.
https://www.tmhardware.com/Residential-Exterior-Door-Sealing-System.html
then, there's the traditional draft stopper. LOL