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Aerobarrier necessary Zone 4B new construction

shermpack | Posted in Energy Efficiency and Durability on

I would appreciate everyone’s opinion on wether to spend $4k on Aerobarrier.

New construction 2,447 sq.ft. home in Sedona, AZ ; Zone 4B (South/Central – Cooling & Heating). Slab on grade with 2” EPS Side Slab insulation and 2’ Horizontal Perimeter. 1/2” OSB walls (Stucco with 1” foam and Tyvek) and 5/8” OSB flat roof with TPO. Open cell spray foam insulation (10” roof deck & 5” exterior walls), including garage. Milgard Vinyl energy star windows. Plenum main duct with no more then 15’ flex duct. Lennox 96 AFUE furnace with 16 seer 5 ton A/C. Lennox ERV with Humidifier & MERV 11.

Aerobarrier has quoted:

No more than 5.9 ACH50 beginning.

3.0 ACH50  2.0 ACH50  1.0 ACH50  0.6 ACH50

$1.35 sq.ft.  $1.45 sq.ft.   $1.60 sq.ft.  $1.95 sq.ft.

$3,303.45    $3,548.15     $3,915.20    $4,771.65

As much as I’d like to get to passive standard, I feel it might be overkill.

Thank you, in advance, for any and all advice!

– Derek

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Replies

  1. Expert Member
    BILL WICHERS | | #1

    Have you had a blower door test done yet? If your house is already really tight, additional sealing with aerobarrier is less important. You need to know what you’re starting with.

    Bill

  2. shermpack | | #2

    Hi Bill. No blower door test yet. Just framed in.

  3. Expert Member
    Dana Dorsett | | #3

    >"... 2,447 sq.ft... "
    -------
    >" Lennox 96 AFUE furnace with 16 seer 5 ton A/C"

    Unless this house has HUMONGOUS amounts of "sunset view" window area that AC is likely to be at least 2x oversized for your peak cooling loads, even with derating for higher peak outdoor temperatures.

    Even the WORST performing houses in the 2000-4000' size range in Allison Bailes' compiled graphic of square feet per ton against Manual-J cooling load calculations on real houses would call for only 3.5 tons, and the average would be 1.5-2 tons:

    https://beta.greenbuildingadvisor.com/app/uploads/sites/default/files/images/Bailes_graph_for_Manual_J_blog.preview.png

    https://www.greenbuildingadvisor.com/article/manual-j-load-calculations-vs-rules-of-thumb

    Most of those houses were in the Gulf Coast states, with perhaps lower sensible cooling loads, and only slightly lower 1% outside design temps than Sedona's 98F, but MUCH higher latent loads than Sedona's negative latent loads:

    https://higherlogicdownload.s3.amazonaws.com/ACCA/c6b38bda-2e04-4f93-bd51-7a80525ad936/UploadedImages/Outdoor-Design-Conditions-1.pdf

    The furnace/air handler that would come with a cooling coil that big is likely to be 4-5x oversized for your heating loads.

    Large oversized factors are the opposite of comfort, and I STRONGLY advise you to get an engineer (not an HVAC contractor) to run the load numbers before picking equipment. This house would likely be most comfortable with a very high SEER 2 ton modulating heat pump (an save the cost of hooking up to the gas grid.) But to know for sure requires running the numbers.

    A proper Manual-J is more valuable than AeroSeal taking it from 5.9ACH/50 down to 3ACH/50. It doesn't take rocket science or aerosol sealants to hit below 3ACH/50- just some level of consciousness among the trades that air tightness is important. Many homes in the upper mid-west built prior to code-maximums will test that tight.

  4. shermpack | | #4

    Great advice Dana. It’s been a struggle getting any of the trades onboard with building science. This includes HVAC. I have a meeting tomorrow with the HVAC contractor and will drill him hard for his “facts”.

    1. Expert Member
      Dana Dorsett | | #5

      So, any updates on the HVAC front?

      It's worth taking a peek at Nate Adams' take on the effects of oversizing on comfort. Although he is usually dealing with retrofits, physics has a habit of working the same in new construction:

      http://www.natethehousewhisperer.com/home-comfort-101.html

      http://www.natethehousewhisperer.com/hvac-101.html

      http://www.natethehousewhisperer.com/hvac-102.html

      The short videos are a quicker "read" than downloading the book chapters, and captures the gist of the problem pretty well.

      Don't expect good load calculations from HVAC contractors- the industry average is pretty abyssmal even among contractors to run a pro-forma Manual-J.

      A couple of years ago I reviewed an HVAC contractor's Manual-J on a superinsulated high performance house where all of the inputs on the windows & R values were all code-min, with code-max air leakage. The heating load estimate was about 3x what an engineer came up with after carefully calculating all of the non-standard and WAY better than code U-factyor on the wall & attic, and correctly entered the published U-factors of the better-than code high performance windows. The HVAC contractor had been given the full details of the wall & roof construction, as well as a list of the window U-factors, and apparently couldn't deal with it.

      Putting the contractor on the spot and making them run a Manual-J usually ends up with a lot of input errors as a fat thumb on the scale to back up the original proposal with only modest changes, which isn't a great outcome.

      Your house isn't as non-standard as that high-performance house, but you're still shooting for better than code-min air tightness, and have slightly better than IRC code wall (though you're somewhat sub-code on the slab edge insulation, maybe the attic too unless it's a 2x4 truss). Compare your R-values & window U-factors to the zone 4 prescriptive values in Tables N1102.1.2 and N1102.1.4 in the IRC:

      https://codes.iccsafe.org/content/IRC2018/chapter-11-re-energy-efficiency

      The R38 roof deck attic is often done when going for code compliance on a whole house performance basis, but you're probably no worse than a typical code-min house, and an IRC 2018 code min house is pretty decent- would usually have a cooling load only a fraction of what 5 tons of AC compressor would deliver.

  5. burninate | | #6

    > Sedona, AZ
    Keep in mind that a large portion of the benefit of airsealing is protecting the heavily insulated (and thus, extremely vulnerable to rot) walls from moisture problems. In Arizona, this is not a problem you have. You're looking at it purely for the thermal benefits, and I find it questionable that on these grounds we'd be able to justify the cost of Aerobarrier in Sedona before it was mandatory in the Northeast.

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