10 foot walls or 10.5?
My shop plans call for 10 foot high walls. Given that 10′ is a standard 2×4 length, I’m thinking of just leaving them uncut, which would give me a 10’6″ wall (with double top and bottom plates). Other than needing a bit more sheathing, am I missing any downsides or caveats?
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I don't see a big difference in any aspect, other than 10' is already a pretty high ceiling.
10' is pretty standard for a workshop. I'm going to be running dust collection ducts up there, which is going to eat up about 7-8".
10' allows you to move 8' pieces of plywood around without having to angle them. It's the least I'd want in a purpose built wood shop.
DC,
Great solution for moving sheet goods: https://www.woodworkingnetwork.com/news/woodworking-industry-news/crazy-horse-dolly-handles-panels-shop
I've found that a Stanley Panel Carry (https://www.stanleytools.com/product/93-300/high-visibility-orange-panel-carry ) makes it a lot easier to move sheet goods around.
I totally skipped over "shop". In that case, 10' is great.
Normally the exterior sheeting provides the sheer strength of the wall keeping the wall square, ideally the sheeting would be tall enough to connect the top plate and the bottom plate to make the strongest wall.
Yes. you can make a strong wall with the 6-inch scraps alternating top and bottom.
Yes, you could buy 12 foot sheeting and cut it down it will be special order and expensive.
Is the benefit from the taller ceiling worth the trouble to you?
Walta
Trevor,
Eight and nine foot high walls are usually framed with pre-cut studs (92 5/8" 0r 104 5/8") so the walls end up 8'-1" or 9'-1". This is to give you room on the interior for two full sheets of drywall or other panel goods, room for a 5/8" lid, and a bit of wiggle room.
Typically when you are framing ten foot walls you cut the studs down to 116 5/8" for the same reason. If you aren't sheathing the interior, the only thing that might similarly influence the height is as Walta said, trying to make your exterior sheathing modular.