GBA Logo horizontal Facebook LinkedIn Email Pinterest Twitter X Instagram YouTube Icon Navigation Search Icon Main Search Icon Video Play Icon Plus Icon Minus Icon Picture icon Hamburger Icon Close Icon Sorted
Best Practices

6 Ways to Make PT Lumber Last Longer

Today's pressure-treated lumber is not as rot-resistant as lumber used to be but there are methods for maximizing its durability and longevity

Most of the preservatives used for treating wood intended for residential applications fall into two categories. In the first category are alkaline copper quaternary (ACQ) and two formulations of copper azole (CA-B and CA-C). The second category of preservatives includes wood treated with two variations of ACQ and CA: micronized copper quaternary (MCQ) and micronized copper azole (MCA).

Until a few years ago, pressure-treated structures were pretty forgiving. We buried fence posts in soil; treating cuts with brush-on preservatives wasn’t required; and there weren’t any flashings, coatings, or tapes covering the tops of joists and beams. Yet, there never seemed to be problems.

When CCA (chromated copper arsenate–treated) southern yellow pine was taken off the residential market in 2004 because of toxicity concerns, my company had some reservations about the new treatments, but things seemed fine for years—until we had a handful of treated-wood failures, which made clear we needed to change our construction methods if we wanted the new outdoor lumber to last as long as the old stuff.

Changes in the chemical formulations of pressure-treated lumber beginning in 2004 have yielded lumber that is not as rot-resistant as it used to be. We have responded by using only ground-contact PT lumber, flashing the tops of joists and beams, treating field cuts, keeping lumber away from grade, and creating spaces for drainage and drying. So far our improvements seem to be working, but only time will tell.

Signposts of problems

One of the first indications that the newer treatments weren’t like the old was a call we received in 2020 about a deck we had built in 2013 that the client said felt springy and soft in areas. It was a pretty standard backyard deck, about 4 ft. above the ground with plastic cap-stock decking.

What I found when I crawled underneath was far from ordinary. Mushrooms were growing out of the joists, and black and white fungi covered their sides. There were a few places where the joists had crumbled, as well as many smaller areas of damage where water had gone between the deck boards. In total, we found 70 damaged joists, beams, and posts…

GBA Prime

This article is only available to GBA Prime Members

Sign up for a free trial and get instant access to this article as well as GBA’s complete library of premium articles and construction details.

Start Free Trial

2 Comments

  1. Expert Member
    MALCOLM TAYLOR | | #1

    Really useful article.

    One other small change I'd suggest for decks is to use two joists with a 2" gap where the deck boards joints will fall, and leave the same gap (+- 1/2") between the butt ends of the decking as you are between the boards.

  2. [email protected] | | #2

    One thing that I find interesting is that pressure treated logs sold specifically as "landscape timbers" are often not rated for ground contact. Seems a bit... inappropriate.

Log in or become a member to post a comment.

Related

Community

Recent Questions and Replies

  • |
  • |
  • |
  • |